Winter is Prime Time for Starting Alpine Strawberries

When I was a young child, one of my favorite spring activities was gathering wild strawberries.  Tiny red fruit ripened on plants that grew low to the ground and my brother and I would spend hours searching for and plucking berries for my mother's delicious jam.  The fruit was so delicious and tempting, we ate as many as we placed in our small buckets and the task never really seemed like a chore.  When I began to grow Alpine strawberries several years ago, I rediscovered that unique flavor punch that is completely absent from supermarket strawberries, which are usually pretty tasteless and dry.  If you also love real strawberry flavor, include growing Alpines on your New Year's resolution list. 

Alpine strawberries sport beautiful, delicate blossoms

Starting Alpine strawberry plants from seed is relatively easy, but does require patience.  Before placing seeds in a small amount of sterile soil, store them in a freezer for a couple of weeks to trick them into a dormancy period.  The seeds are very tiny and although it is possible to sow them and thin later, I find it easier to take time to place single seeds in individual cells and transplant seedlings when they are about two to three inches in height.  It is necessary to keep the soil moist throughout the germination process and a plastic covering works well to hold in moisture.  Seedlings may take weeks to appear and a daily misting of water is helpful.  There are several varieties of Alpine strawberries, but I like Yellow Wonder and Red Wonder.  I find yellow seeds usually have a higher rate of germination and seedlings appear more quickly than red, but for an interesting combination of color and flavor, I love to grow them in close proximity.  Since birds typically avoid the yellow fruit color, that is a good choice for gardeners who have trouble protecting ripening fruit from hungry birds. 

Alpine strawberries are known by several names, including fraise des bois (berries of the woods)

With no runners, Alpine strawberries are excellent container plants and because they produce better in slightly cool growing conditions, they can be grown indoors.  When the plant blooms, whisk a small, soft brush across each blossom to help pollinate the plant.  Outdoors, pollinators will take care of this job and Alpines grow equally well in containers or raised beds.  Once established, Alpines are perennial plants that should produce fruit in the first season.  With just a few plants, you should have enough ripe strawberries to serve as a nice addition to morning cereals or evening desserts, if you can restrain yourself from just eating them as they ripen, fresh from the plant. 

Grandpup Winnie loves Alpine Strawberries, too!

What's Garden Trendy for 2015? I'll Take a Guess. . .

This is the time of year when we read and hear a lot about what is going to shape our lives for the coming year.  What color should we paint the living room?  According to which paint seller you believe, it is either a shade of coral or green.  Technology buffs tell us drones will be THE techie gadget to have and fashionistas are touting a 1970s influence on women's spring wardrobes.  Just when I thought I might not live long enough to endure the return of fringed jackets and earth-tone pantsuits . . .

Although I do not claim to be an expert garden forecaster, I do think there are a few heirloom plants that may prove to be trendy among North Carolina farmers.  You don't think foods can be trendy?  Perhaps you are not old enough to remember all those tasteless no-fat cookies that lined supermarket shelves in the 1980s and frozen TV dinners that made us 1960s kids feel like we were dining with the Jetsons?  While my crystal ball may be a bit cloudy, I offer the following list of heirloom plants I think will be popular additions to this year's backyard gardens and large produce farms. 

1.  Pink Okra
 In recent years, okra has been a darling of fine dining menus.  I'm not sure why we Southerners always sliced, battered and fried this versatile vegetable, but it is delicious grilled, stuffed and baked or eaten raw, fresh in the field, which I just tried this summer, and loved.  Pink Okra is perfect for those who do not like the "slime" associated with most varieties and although this plant is more hibiscus than true okra, it produces an edible pod with mild okra flavor and beautiful, deep pink blossoms that are delicious.  Shelf life for the flowers is very short, so pluck them from these compact plants and add them to salads for a wow factor.  Seed source:  www.rareseeds.com

Pink Okra is beautiful in both flower and vegetable gardens

2.  Christmas Beans
For bean lovers, this one is a special treat.  Large, creamy white lima-type beans and deep red striping make Christmas beans a beautiful dish and the pot liquor (cooked bean broth) they produce is rich and meaty.  Boasting chestnut flavor, these beans are great to lightly cook, chop and add to stuffings.   I received seeds from a Western NC man whose family heirlooms include Christmas beans, but they may be purchased at www.purcellmountainfarms.com.  Warning:  Christmas beans need a long growing season and lots of trellis to climb.  

Cooked in water, Christmas Beans make a hearty broth

3.  Peppers (Sweet & Hot)
North Carolina is an ideal growing climate for a variety of heirloom peppers and with a burgeoning regional palate that appreciates spicy foods, (think Thai, Indian and Vietnamese dishes) fresh peppers are in demand.  On the hot side, red and yellow Thai peppers, Lemon Drops and Omnicolor are some of my favorites.  Piquillo and Anaheim are two varieties that pack a flavorful punch, especially when roasted, without scalding the tongue.  Prolific producers, a single pepper plant will satisfy the needs of most backyard gardeners and most plants require little growing space.  Seed sources:  www.chilepepperinstitute.org or www.rareseeds.com  or www.sowtrueseed.com

4.  Interesting Eggplants
To produce a variety of interesting flavors and intriguing colors and shapes, it is hard to beat growing eggplants.   Resolve to include some new additions to your garden plan and prepare to wonder why you always grew only large purple eggplants.  One of my favorites is Aubergine Burkina du Faso, a compact fruit that is the perfect individual serving size, although the plants grow taller than most eggplants.  Be sure to take every measure to protect seedlings since every pest loves an eggplant.  Seed source:  www.rareseeds.com

Aubergie Burkina du Faso eggplants range in color from yellow to red

5.  Cream Sausage Tomatoes
Cream Sausage tomatoes are my absolute favorite canning tomato.  Creamy white, the fruit is shaped like a Roma and is a bit mealy and dry when fresh, but cooking these tomatoes releases intense flavor.  Perfect in soups, stews, pies, and salsas, Cream Sausage plants are compact and seldom require more than a small stake to keep them upright.  Caution: Cream Sausage plants appear to wilt and their leaves sometimes have a dusty appearance, but after observing them for several years, I now accept their puny appearance as part of their appeal and the abundant fruit they produce makes up for the plants' drab style.  www.rareseeds.com

A determinate tomato variety, Cream Sausage produces abundant fruit

As with all heirloom plants, select the best fruit or vegetable specimens to save for seed.  After an initial purchase or gift from a gardening friend, heirloom seeds may be saved and planted every year of your gardening life.  And, unlike those 1970s fashions, these trendy foods will be welcome guests at your dinner table. 

The Farm is the Main Thing

Recently, I sat in a hospital waiting room while a family member was in surgery.  Surrounded by others who were equally anxious and hopeful for their own loved ones, I attempted to lose myself in the latest copy of Edible Charlotte.  One of my favorite publications, Edible never fails to deliver intriguing recipes, offer new planting ideas and showcase the best of Charlotte's food scene.

While reading, I overheard the man sitting next to me mention the word "farm."  I kept my eyes on the page, but shamelessly eavesdropped on the conversation between the man and the older woman to his left.  His words made me reflect on the growing emphasis on locally produced food, while inwardly I chuckled at his idealistic vision of the lives of restaurant owners and farmers.  Not that I doubt this man may someday live his dream, but as he talked, I remembered the heartbreak of crops I lost to drought, flood, freeze and blistering heat.  I recalled many chats with farm-to-table chefs and how these talented men and women struggle to maintain that delicate balance of stocking adequate fresh food ingredients for customers who may drop in unannounced, while attempting to provide an enticing menu for those who reserved tables in advance. 

Perhaps it is our hurried, busy lives that make us long for simplicity, a connection to the Earth and a renewed appreciation for the source of our food.  Maybe this man has a need in his life and he believes working with the land will fill that void.  I hope he overcomes the challenges ahead and I hope he realizes his dream.  Maybe someday, I will stumble across a restaurant, surrounded by a pastoral farm, that serves Saturday dinner only and the man's dream will echo in my memory.  I hope he lives his dream and I hope customers will come . . .

Hospital Waiting Room Soliloquy

I really want to farm.  When I retire, I hope to go where God leads me and have a farm.  I will work about 35 hours per week at my regular job and the rest of the time, I will work at the farm.  Gradually, I will only work at the farm.  I will plant vegetables and fruits.  One day, I will have cows and maybe pigs.  And chickens.  After I build the farm, I will open a restaurant.  I will serve food I grow.  Maybe I will do lunch or breakfast sometimes, but I will only open on Saturdays for dinner.  I will only serve two meal choices.  I don't want the restaurant to be too much; I will only do Saturday dinners and people will come from all around to eat.  The restaurant will not take much of my time.  The farm is the main thing.

Pumpkin is Personal

Pardon me while I jump on that out-of-control speeding autumn locomotive.  Yes, you know the one.  The Pumpkin Train.  There is no escaping the winter squash pandemonium, but my relationship with pumpkin goes way beyond cupcakes, candles, coffee, shampoo and body fragrance.  For me, pumpkin is not just business; it's personal.

Days before her death, Maw poses with great-grandson Clark in her pumpkin patch

I still miss those early fall telephone calls from my grandmother that heralded her pumpkin harvest.  Troops (I,cousin, Gwin Laws, aunt, Wanda Suddreth, and the four great-grandchildren: Zak, Clark, Mason and Kate) assembled at her Happy Valley home and followed Maw's instructions.  The two oldest kids rolled a wheelbarrow to the garden while Maw wielded her sharp knife to cut assorted pumpkins from their withered vines.  Gwin, Wanda and I provided muscle to move the largest squash to the wheelbarrow while the children gathered as many as they could carry. 

4-year-old Kate struggles with a large pumpkin

When the wheelbarrow groaned with a heavy load, Maw paused to pose for photos with the children before the group headed to her home to unload squash and dive into Aunt Wanda's Halloween treats. Buzzing with sugar highs and fresh fall air, each child chose a pumpkin for his/her own and happily planned carving a jack o'lantern face on the pale orange orb.

Maw Hamby with her pumpkin gatherers

Maw's Pumpkin Gatherings were an annual family event and her death, in 1994, just a few weeks before her last crop was ready for harvest, left a void in our family.  Thankfully, I inherited some of Maw's pumpkin seeds and the fruits of those seeds continue to replenish my stockpile of seeds, safely stored in a freezer.  Well, except for this year . . .

1994: The last gathering. Mason holds his baby sister, Hannah, born weeks after Maw's death

This summer, my nephew, Ben Hamby, helped plant some of Maw's pumpkin seeds at Heart & Sole.  Although she died years before his birth, Ben is familiar with stories of the Happy Valley Pumpkin Gatherings and he looked forward to harvesting his own squash in early fall.  Despite our best efforts to protect the pumpkin crop, both groundhogs and deer attacked seedlings.  Just before frost, when it was too late for the pumpkins to mature, the struggling plants finally produced several soccer ball sized fruit, but it was too late to harvest ripe pumpkins and save seeds.  It's a good thing I still have a stash of Maw's seeds in my freezer and Ben and I look forward to planting again next summer.  

Maw's pumpkins made great jack o' lanterns

At our family's Thanksgiving table, we are grateful for all those who helped shape us into the people we are and our traditional meal always includes dishes that honor special people who are no longer with us.  Our celebratory meal would be incomplete without Aunt Nancy's Vidalia onion pie, Granny's oyster dressing and Maw's pumpkin pie.  With fresh pumpkin in its chess-like filling, this recipe is decadent and as the pie bakes, its aromatic fragrance perfumes the kitchen.  Serve alone or with vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream.  Enjoy and be grateful.  Very grateful. . .

Maw's (Ethel Bolick Hamby) Pumpkin Pie
 Yield:  2 pies (9 inch pie plates)
2 eggs
2 cups fresh pumpkin, cooked and pureed
3 1/4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 3/4 cups milk

Mix all ingredients in a large bowl, stirring to combine.  Pour into two prepared, unbaked pie shells and bake in a preheated 425 degree oven for 15 minutes.  Lower heat to 350 degrees and bake for another 45 minutes or until center of pies are set.  

Fall for Greens

My maternal grandmother often said, "Eat greens in the fall and you will not be sick in the winter."  Although there may be no scientific evidence to support her statement, I believe, as Granny did, that fresh autumn greens give a strong boost to a body's immune system.  As I gather kale, red and green mustard and turnip greens, I can almost smell that singular cooking aroma that filled Granny's kitchen on cool fall afternoons.

In memory, the dish is crystal clear.  Dark leafy greens with rich broth lapping at the bowl's edge.  Cider vinegar, tart and tingly, stands in a glass cruet, its fragrance biting the nose a bit.  Granny slices cornbread, hot from the oven, still in the cast iron skillet.  She places a steaming piece on top of the greens and we bless the food.  A simple meal, what some might call peasant food, but utterly delicious and satisfying.  Perhaps Granny's fall greens did not prevent winter illness, but they certainly boosted fall spirits. 

Two varieties of Bok Choy

After battling pests and weeds during the heat of summer, fall crops are satisfying to grow.  Rows of kale, mustard, lettuce, bok choy and arugula compete with few weeds and it is easy to harvest baskets in a matter of minutes.  In several areas of the farm, black radishes, kale and mustard grow abundantly, even though I did not plant them this fall.  Heirloom plants reseed from earlier seasons and I regard those as "free food."  Last week, I picked kale from a spot where I planted four years ago.  Since that first crop, kale grows each spring and fall.  Talk about permaculture!

Kale reseeds and provides free food

In addition to numerous nutritional health benefits, leafy greens are versatile and delicious.  Add a handful of fresh arugula to hot pasta, toss the mixture in a large skillet with a tablespoon of olive oil, scramble an egg to bind the pasta and greens, season with a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper, grate or shred a bit of Parmesan cheese over the pasta and enjoy a delicious meal that is  quick and easy to prepare.  Brush kale leaves with vinaigrette and bake them in a 400 degree oven until they crisp.  Lightly sprinkle coarse kosher salt over the chips and enjoy a healthy snack.  Remove bok choy leaves and fill the tender white stems with pimento cheese or peanut butter for a tempting appetizer. 

Mustard thrives beside spent summer squash

Parsnips = Time and Space

Ever wonder why local autumn farmer's market vendors do not offer parsnips in the same abundant numbers as summer heirloom tomatoes?  After all, these root vegetables are as much poster children for their season as those juicy, colorful orbs are for summer.  I think I have the answer to the question as to why parsnips can be in short supply:  they require time and space.

To produce a successful parsnip crop, try this basic recipe:

1.  Purchase heirloom seeds.  Parsnips can have a low germination rate, so purchase extra.

2.  In early spring, prepare the soil.  Parsnips are root vegetables, so be sure the soil is deeply worked, about two feet.  For best results, use a tractor hiller attachment to raise the row where you plan to plant parsnips, otherwise, use a rake or hoe to make a raised row.

3.  After the danger of frost has passed, place seeds atop the row and cover with about one-half inch of soil.

4.  When parsnips begin to grow, thin the plants to allow space for roots to grow, about three inches apart.

5.  Diligently weed the parsnip row as often as possible, taking care to not damage the tender seedlings.  Apply a layer of mulch to help control weeds.

Late spring Parsnip row, weeded in foreground

6.  Keep weeding throughout summer and early fall.

7.  After a few frosts, begin to harvest parsnips.  A shovel is helpful to dig the roots, since they can be quite long  Some mature parsnips may be more than ten inches in length.

8.  Throughout winter, harvest parsnips.  Hardy plants, the roots store well in the ground, unless the winter is exceptionally harsh.  Cold weather makes the roots sweeter.

For some gardeners, growing parsnips is too labor intensive to justify the  time and real estate necessary to produce a successful crop; however, for those who crave that unique sweet flavor, sort of carrot, but not really, these long season tubers are worth the effort.  When I look at my parsnip row, frilly leaves standing tall, I anticipate the harvest and look forward to enjoying these root veggies in soups, roasted or boiled and mashed.  For a pure taste of the autumn season, fresh parsnips are the ultimate flavor.

Parsnip/Carrot soup: recipe at www.seedtales.com

Not only are parsnips delicious, they can sometimes be surprising.  Several years ago, I harvested my first parsnip crop.  It was mid-winter and the soil was cold and hard.  I used my foot to push the shovel deep into soil surrounding parsnip leaves.  When I tried to pull the vegetable from the ground, it seemed to be stuck.  After removing several spadefuls of dirt from the area, I finally worked the prize free.  When I saw what I held in my hand, I had to laugh aloud.  Who says farm work is without humor?

Passionate Parsnips

Piquillos: The Little Beak with Big Bite

I first tasted roasted Piquillo peppers at Chef Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc restaurant, in the Napa Valley.  Not only were the peppers beautifully presented, filled with a slow-roasted beef short rib stuffing and served over pearled cous cous in a cast iron skillet, they were incredibly delicious.  Sweet and spicy.  I wanted to eat them every day.  Unfortunately, back home in North Carolina, no local supermarket sold them and online shopping was not what it is today.  I tried to recreate the dish I loved, using other canned, roasted peppers as a substitute, but the flavor did not compare to those little red peppers.

A few years ago, I decided to plant Piquillo peppers at Heart & Sole Gardens.  Cultivated primarily in Northern Spain, Piquillos are thick-fleshed sweet peppers that sport a pointed tip end, hence, the Spanish name, which translates to "little beak."  After ordering seeds from the New Mexico Chile Pepper Institute, I looked forward to growing and harvesting Piquillos in North Carolina, but as with many heirloom crops that are not adapted to particular geographic regions, my first pepper yield was disappointing.  This year, after years of saving seeds from the best specimens, Piquillos seem to like our western NC climate and, finally, I have enough peppers to make the dish I love and preserve some for later use.

Before adapting to NC climate, Piquillo peppers frequently rotted before ripening

When perfectly ripe, Piquillo peppers are easy to roast and peel.  With a sharp knife, slice the stem end from each pepper and use your fingers to remove the seeds.  Place peppers on a baking sheet, lined with foil.  With the oven rack set to the highest position, broil peppers, turning often, until they are charred on all sides.  Immediately, remove from the oven and place peppers in a brown paper bag and fold the top of the bag to close.  Allow peppers to cool and then slip the charred skin from the pepper's flesh.  Use immediately or freeze roasted Piquillos. 

Dry pepper seeds to save for future planting

Perhaps there are other NC farmers who grow Piquillos, but I have yet to see them at a local farmer's market.  With a rich flavor that trumps other stuffing peppers, I predict that fresh Piquillos will prove to be popular with consumers.  Until they become available, try growing your own plant next summer, in your garden or a container.  For now, experiment with supermarket canned Piquillos, but look forward to enjoying fresh ones in the future. 

Stuffed Piquillo peppers make a pretty presentation

Eat Each Season

Fall is in the air; can you smell it?  Summer plants are dying, decaying and adding nutrients to our soil as they pass.  There is a crispness to the breeze that makes it easier for bodies to breathe.  After frenetic summer harvests and food processes, I find autumn's slower garden pace to be relaxing.  Shelling my grandmother's peas is a task I enjoy and as they simmer, creating a rich pot liquor broth and earthy fragrance, my body craves those fruits and vegetables that are as much a part of their season as falling leaves. 

Granny's peas are as delicious as they are beautiful

We grow a large percentage of the food we eat and Richard and I find our bodies and taste buds eagerly anticipate each season's crops.  Nothing compares to the taste of a sun-warmed, perfectly ripe, heirloom tomato, until tiny sweet carrots and spicy radishes are ready to pull.  Then, there is fragrant arugula, crisp leaves that make delicious salads, pesto or sandwich components.  Combine and braise hearty kale, collards, mustard greens and turnip leaves and that cold weather dish feels like a pure dose of immune system boosting power.  Brush snow from spinach plants to uncover tender leaves that encourage nibbling as numb fingers work to pick them.  Green garlic shoots, sugar snap peas, asparagus spears and even dandelion leaves and wild onions are harbingers of their season and whet appetites for the wealth of summer's fruit and veg bounty.

Supporting local food is about more than purchasing fresh ingredients at a farmer's market, ordering from a farm-to-table menu or unpacking a box of goodies from a CSA; it's about relishing each season's unique flavors, textures and nutrients.   This fall, vow to appreciate parsnips, greens, apples, pumpkins and other autumn crops.  Listen to your body.  Go for a long walk.  Breathe deeply.  Savor each bite.  All too soon, temperatures will drop and icy winds will blow, but on some of our coldest days, rosemary will bloom and fresh spinach will nestle under snow, encouraging us to seek winter's tastes.  Eat each season. 

Southern Style Fresh Peas

My maternal grandmother called her peas "black-eyed peas," but they are a type of cowpea, also known as crowder peas, for the way they "crowd" into each pod.  This year, in addition to Granny's peas, we also grew Whippoorwill peas at Heart & Sole.  A cousin, Gene Hedrick, shared heirloom seeds with us that he reports grew in the Hedrick/Barlowe family for generations.  Both peas produced well and look almost identical.  A perfect fall dish, fresh peas are easy to prepare and delicious to eat.

Remove fresh peas from pods, rinse and drain.  Allow 3/4 cups fresh shelled peas for each serving.
In a large pot, heat about 1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil.  (Meat lovers may use bacon fat.)  Saute 1/2 cup chopped onion until translucent.  Add peas and enough water to cover.  Season with salt and pepper, to taste.  Stir and bring to a boil.  Lower heat, cover pot and allow peas to simmer until they are the texture you prefer, anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours.
Serve with hot cornbread. 

Cooked only in water, Granny's peas make a hearty pot liquor broth

Boots on the Ground Spell Sole Work

"You spelled your name wrong."  I was working, with my daughter, Kate, to set up our farmer's market booth in Blowing Rock and I looked up to see a man standing beside our sign.  He pointed a finger at the board.  "Sole.  It's supposed to be s-o-u-l."  I smiled at his smug face as I responded.  "Sir, you do not understand what I do."

It takes sole work to produce soul food

Years since that interaction, I often speak with people who attempt to correct my spelling, but gardeners who coax food from soil realize farming is its own "boots on the ground" job.  When I work in the fields, freshly plowed or covered with mile-high weeds, sturdy boots protect and support my feet and help to propel me from one task to the next.  Intense summer sunshine bakes both soil and soles and the vehicle's air conditioning brings welcome relief when I drive home after working in the heat.  Underfoot, ice crystals sometimes crunch as I harvest winter crops.  This week, after days of torrential downpours, knee-high waterproof boots kept my feet dry as I harvested Bok Choy, late tomatoes and fall greens.  Quicksand-like mud pulled at my ankles, threatening to toss me to the ground, but with the help of my boots, I traversed pools of standing water and stayed upright while I worked. 

Rubber boots protect feet from treacherous mud

Soon after we began to farm, Richard and I discovered the joy of harvesting and eating the fruits of our labor and we regard fresh produce as food for the body, mind and soul, but without sole work, it is not possible to grow a successful crop.  Sole work makes us more grateful for all food.  After losing almost an entire crop of butterbeans to hungry deer and groundhog attacks, the unexpected gift of the same variety of beans from a fellow gardener was a pleasant surprise.  Knowing the sole work behind the gift deepens my appreciation and enriches the bean flavor.

Worn soles reflect the day's toil

When shopping for soul food at the farmer's market, pause to consider the physical, financial and emotional investments made by sole workers who offer their wares.  Marvel at how each plant began life as a seed and offer thanks to those who humanely raised the protein ingredients you enjoy.  Occasionally, trade your street shoes for a pair of working boots and prepare to find yourself humbled by sole work as you grow your own food.

A potato heart sits in a boot print

 

Exceptional Heirloom Eggplants

Just when I thought this summer's eggplant crop was a total failure, those tenacious plants produced colorful, delicious fruit. Despite attacks from Colorado potato, Harlequin and flea beetles, worms, deer and my Personal Arch Nemesis, the aptly named GROUNDHOG, the eggplants are sporting an abundant crop of babies.  As with other summer crops, my task is to preserve flavor for the coming winter.

 

Baby eggplants are perfect for pickling

One of my family's favorite eggplant treats is a pickled version I store in the refrigerator.  These tangy slices are uniquely eggplant-flavored and are delicious pizza toppings, antipasti components, fried rice or pasta sauce additives or finger food, fished from the jar.  Baby eggplants are best for this recipe, but for optimum flavor, harvest all eggplants before seeds turn dark.  

Do not peel baby eggplants; the skin colors are beautiful in this dish

Pickled Eggplant

Select several small eggplants.  Check to be sure skins are unblemished and flesh is firm.  Wash fruit and dry.  Use a sharp knife to slice into 1/4 inch slices.  A variety of heirlooms, with smooth skins, will add color and visual interest to this preparation.  Inside a large bowl, fit a colander that leaves enough space to allow eggplants slices to drain. 

Arrange eggplant slices in a single layer for best drainage

Place eggplant slices in a single layer and liberally sprinkle with kosher or sea salt.  Carefully top the eggplant with another bowl that weights the eggplant, forcing liquid to drain from the slices.  I use the bowl from a mortar and pestle to add pressure.  Store the eggplant in a refrigerator overnight.  

The heavy bowl of a mortar and pestle helps press liquid from eggplant slices

The following day, use your hands to toss the drained eggplant slices in a large bowl with about 1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar.  Do not worry about rinsing the salt from the slices; it will add to the flavor of the finished product.  Place a whole garlic clove and several peppercorns in the bottom of a wide-mouth glass jar, either pint or quart, depending upon the amount of eggplant.  Fill the jar about 1/3 with eggplant and then add fresh herbs.  I like oregano, basil, thyme and parsley, but feel free to experiment with herbs and spices.  Slice a couple of peppers, hot, sweet or both, and slide the halves between the eggplant and the glass.  Layer the eggplant with herbs and/or peppers and use fingers to press the contents.  When the jar is full, leaving about 1/2 inch headspace, fill with good quality olive oil.  Wipe the jar rim with a clean cloth, screw on a lid and store in the refrigerator. 

Fresh peppers and herbs add beauty and flavor to pickled eggplant

The olive oil will solidify in the refrigerator, so allow the jar to stand at room temperature for about an hour before using.  After a couple of weeks, the eggplant will absorb enough flavor from the herbs and spices to use, but will be more delicious after a few months.  That is, if it lasts that long!

Real Friends Share Recipes

We all know cooks who, rather than share a special recipe, will take the secret ingredients to the grave.  Years ago, my mother-in-law, Tut Barlowe, belonged to a book club and one of the members prided herself on a delicious green bean casserole she often served at meetings.  Although members begged for the recipe, the cook would not divulge it.  Each time the casserole was served, members whispered about possible ingredients and speculated about cooking techniques.  Finally, Tut came up with her own recreation of the dish she loved.  Perhaps it is not exactly the same recipe, but when Tut makes her green bean casserole for family gatherings, there are never leftovers. 

Recently, a friend and former coworker, Karen Watson Tolbert, shared a recipe with me that will always be in my late-summer arsenal.  Originally part of the "Miles Away Farm Blog," the post for "August is for Tomatoes" ( http://milesawayfarm.wordpress.com/2014/08/12/august-is-for-tomatoes/) includes this super-easy and delicious recipe.  As is the case with the best recipes, this one came to Karen by way of another friend, Margaret Greer.  Sometimes, tracking the source of recipes is akin to tracing genealogical roots.  Whatever the primary source may be, this roasted tomato sauce recipe is a fabulous way to use heirloom tomatoes that are just-on-the-verge of becoming compost.  So far, my freezer is holding twelve batches of this recipe, but with a few late tomato plants, I just might do a couple more runs. . .

Fresh herbs & garlic chive blossom heads add flavor to roasted tomatoes

Visit the Miles Away Farm Blog for the original recipe, but feel free to add your own special touches.  With a bumper crop of heirloom peppers, I usually add some hot Thai peppers or sweet Jimmy Nardellos, tuck in some fresh oregano, garlic chive blossom heads or whatever is growing in the herb or vegetable garden that calls to me.  Splashes of balsamic or herbed vinegar add flavor depth.  Both Karen and Margaret add their own special touches with this recipe and each achieves a finished product that satisfies and delights their families. 

Roasting tomatoes emit a tantalizing kitchen fragrance

"Bruise like a banana" is a familiar quote, but for heirloom tomato growers, no fruit bruises more easily than a perfectly ripe love apple.  For that reason alone, it is nearly impossible for supermarkets to stock heirloom tomatoes.  When I harvest Great White tomatoes, using small, sharp pruners to snip the fruit from the vine, carefully place the tomatoes in a basket and drive them home, I invariably find bruises on the soft flesh, signaling spots that will quickly deteriorate.  Thankfully, the roasted tomato sauce recipe is a simple way to preserve the flavor of these precious fruits. 

Blemished fruit finds a purpose in the Roasted Tomato Sauce recipe

You may use a food processor or blender to process the finished roasted product, but an immersion blender makes that step a breeze.  Ease the roasted fruit, vegetables and herbs into a pot, whirl the stick blender throughout the mixture and use the results for a rich spaghetti or lasagna sauce base, add a bit of cream for a hearty soup or spread the sauce on pizza crust.  One taste will inspire you to create a variety of delicious dishes.  

For that green bean casserole recipe, visit www.seedtales.com and look for "Tut's Fresh Green Bean Casserole" under the summer recipes.  Both Tut and I agree, recipes should never be secret . . .

Support Local Food at the Source, Go to the FAIR!

Flashing lights, clanging bells, bellowing cattle, roasting peanuts and whirling amusement rides.  Yes, it's that time of year when North Carolinians celebrate all things agricultural at local fairs.  Perhaps it has been awhile since you attended such an event and, if that is the case, make plans now to visit an agricultural fair.  For those who support local food, there is no better opportunity to witness, firsthand, the best of what grows in our state.  From local honey to broil-your-tongue fresh peppers, an agricultural fair is a chance to see the incredible variety of what NC produces.

When I was a child, my brother, cousins and I eagerly anticipated the annual agricultural fair.  It was a time to stuff ourselves with candy apples, pluck plastic ducks from a trough of water to win a prize and let our imaginations run wild as we made our way through the haunted house.  Although we loved every trip to the fair, one year stands out in my memory.

My brother, Dale, was about three years old when he discovered a garden hose attached to a water faucet near the farm animal barn.  Breaking free from our group, he grabbed the spray nozzle and, to his delight, discovered the water was on and he was in control of a powerful toy.  My mother called to him to rejoin us, but he was in his element, spraying water in a wide circle.  My grandmother began to walk toward him, but he turned the nozzle and sprayed her.  It was the only time I can recall seeing my grandmother run, high-stepping in retreat as my brother soaked the back of her green dress.  My cousins and I attempted to encircle the culprit, who was now screaming with laughter, but each time one of us tried to approach him, he would turn the water on us.  Finally, my mother braved the blast and walked through the stream to wrestle the nozzle from her son's grasp, her bouffant hairdo wilting under the soaking water.  Wringing water from our clothing, we walked to our car, our fair visit cut short.  As we drove away, someone began to giggle and soon, the entire group was laughing, tears adding more moisture to our already wet faces.  To this day, it is a memory that makes me laugh aloud.

Earlier this week, I packed boxes of canned goods and fresh produce and delivered them to the Caldwell County Fairgrounds where I found Darlene Berry, Seth Nagy, Dolly Whisnant, Nancy Clark, Maggie Miller, Lois Hoyle, Lee Cox and Dick Mitchell, fair organizers and directors, whose hard work and planning are evident.  My friend, Karen Storie Glasscock, received several blue and red ribbons for her entries in the Mocksville, NC, fair, and she and I have a friendly competition to see who will win the most prizes.   Although award money is minimal, pride is at stake and Karen threw the gauntlet this year.   Competition at agricultural fairs is friendly, but I admit I will be sorely disappointed if my pretty pickled cherry tomatoes do not receive a prize!

A couple of Karen's prize ribbons from the Mocksville Fair

Local fairs focus on youth groups and visitors are inspired by a wide range of entries from young people, ages 5-19.  From food preservation to arts and crafts to horticulture and many other categories, it is gratifying to see the efforts of these talented youngsters.  The Junior Beef Heifer Show, open to exhibitors under 21 years old, is a hotly contested and thrilling event.  Caldwell County's show will be held on Saturday, September 27th, at 2 pm. 

It is not too late to plan a trip to a local fair.  Rowan County, Atlantic District, Caldwell County, Chowan County, Moore County and Madison County fairs run through Saturday, the 27th and the Harnett Regional fair ends on Sunday, the 28th.  Wayne, Wilkes, Onslow, Stanley and Cleveland Counties all host fairs during the first week of October and the BIG SHOW, the NC State Fair, will be in Raleigh from October 16-26.  Revisit your childhood with a trip to one of these events or take a child.  Just be sure to keep an eye out for unguarded water hoses!

Richard carries our son, Clark, into the Caldwell Fair, 1988. 

Heirloom Seed Saving, Perpetuating a Delicious Heritage

The beautiful array of colorful heirloom tomatoes that entice summer farmer's market shoppers are perhaps even more dear because their season is brief.  Tangy greens, candy-sweet pinks, earthy purples and citrus-scented yellows beguile our taste buds and delight our eyes.  Limited garden space and busy schedules prevent many of us from growing all the varieties we love, but with the appropriate container, almost anyone can harvest enough tomatoes to satisfy personal desires.  Plan now to grow a favorite heirloom tomato next year.

Caldwell Co. gardener, Ralph Triplett, grows this heirloom with seed he saves each year

For those interested in preserving agricultural heritage or employing sustainable growing techniques, heirloom seed saving is an important practice.  Preserve seed from fruit or vegetable specimens that exhibit the most desirable characteristics and note subsequent plants will produce higher yields, be more resistant to pests and disease and perform better in less-than-ideal weather growing conditions.  A nice side benefit for seed savers is harvesting food that is far superior in taste to supermarket wares. 

Although any heirloom plant seed may be saved for future planting seasons, tomatoes are a delicious beginning lesson for seed saving newbies.  Yes, it is possible to just smear tomato seeds on a paper towel, allow them to dry and then pull them from the paper to plant, but with a little time and patience, tomato seeds will be clean and ready to grow next spring.  Before eating that perfect specimen you purchased at the farmer's market, follow these simple steps to save seeds and enjoy growing your own heirloom tomatoes, either in your garden or a container. 

1.  Select fruit that is fully ripe and free of blemishes. 

2.  Slice the bottom (blossom) end to expose seeds.

3.  Squeeze seeds into a clear drinking glass or jar.

4.  Add water to cover seeds and pulp and use a spoon or finger to agitate contents.

Viable seeds sink to the bottom

5.  The following day, slowly pour off the pulpy water, taking care to leave seeds in the bottom of the container.

6.  Add fresh water to cover seeds and agitate.

Remove pulpy water and add clear until seeds are clean

8.  When water is clear, typically 1-3 days, leave a small amount of water with the seeds and pour contents onto a glass plate.

9.  Place plate out of direct sunlight until water has evaporated and seeds are completely dry, about 3 days.

A glass plate is best for drying seeds

10.  Use a knife or fingernail to carefully remove seeds from the plate and place them in a paper envelope.  Label the contents, with the date, and store seeds in a dry environment.  (An office desk or bedroom drawer is usually a good place to store seeds.)








As you join legions of heirloom seed savers, look forward to growing your own delicious fruit next year.  How to enjoy that first ripe tomato will likely be a difficult decision.  Sandwich?  Pie?  Salsa?  Sauce?  Give yourself permission to savor that first bite, alone, juice dripping from your chin, as you wait for the next ripe fruit. 

San Marzano Heirloom Tomatoes: NC's New Cash Crop?

One of the most difficult tasks for gardeners is deciding which plants to grow.  When I find seed catalogs in my mailbox, illustrated with an array of appealing photographs, I experience the same enticement I felt as a child when the Sears & Roebuck Christmas Wishbook arrived at our home.  After surveying hundreds of intriguing possibilities,  I tally my costs and begin to whittle my list to include only items I absolutely have to have.  Richard often reminds me that each seed requires a lot of work and he attempts, sometimes futilely, to curb my early-spring enthusiasm.  Fortunately, my seed orders decrease each year as I increase my collection of heirloom seeds, saved from plants I grow at Heart & Sole Gardens. 

After growing heirloom plants for years, I am impressed with their yield, hardiness and flavor and I believe the best heirlooms are ones that produce for generations in the same geographical area.  Unlike hybrid varieties, heirlooms adapt to soil and weather conditions and pass along protective traits in seed.  For best results, seed should be saved from the most desirable, fully ripe, fruits or vegetables.  With each successive generation of plants, gardeners will notice fewer flaws and more perfect specimens.  

My family loves fresh salsa and when tomatoes are not in season and we exhaust our canned summer bounty, I purchase whole canned tomatoes at the supermarket.  Although there are usually several choices, San Marzano tomatoes are more expensive than other types.  Research about this paste tomato reveals a murky past, although San Marzanos, like other domesticated tomatoes, probably originated in Peru. If you are interested to read more about this intriguing fruit, this site is a good resource:  www.sanmarzanotomatoes.org

San Marzano tomatoes, with a thin skin and rich flavor, make delicious salsa

Since San Marzano tomatoes make excellent salsa and they command a premium price, I decided to grow them, but three years ago, when other paste tomatoes produced abundant, beautiful fruit, the San Marzanos struggled.  Their plants, more susceptible to blight than other varieties, yielded few perfect specimens and most deflated on the vine, developed black spots on the skin or concealed a dark rotten spot inside the fruit.  Undeterred by the first, disappointing harvest, I saved seeds from a few nice tomatoes and hoped they would grow plants that would thrive in western NC's climate.  Last year's wet chilly summer season was less than ideal for growing tomatoes, but I did note the San Marzanos yielded fruit that was nicer than the previous year and again, I saved seeds from the best fruit.

Earlier harvests included larger fruit, but 174 SM tomatoes on 9/12/14 is impressive

Perhaps the third time really is a charm, but third-generation San Marzano tomatoes are rock stars at Heart & Sole.  To date, five plants yielded hundreds of pounds of ripe fruit and most of them are free of blemishes.  Two plants are stronger than the others and their fruit is larger and more beautiful, therefore, I only saved seeds from those plants and shared seed fruit with a couple of Charlotte-area farmers who may help to bring this delicious fruit to local markets next year.   Perhaps San Marzano tomatoes could become a major North Carolina crop?  For fresh salsa lovers, that is a goal worth pursuing!

CB's Salsa

Note: I have made this recipe for over thirty years and often share it with friends who claim it does not taste the same when they make it.  I believe salsa, like other "hand" dishes, is a recipe that uses prescribed ingredients, but produces different results with each creator.  It is as if a bit of each cook's personality passes to the dish.   Measurements are not exact; add or subtract, according to individual taste and enjoy fresh salsa (some call it pico de gallo) with chips, grilled fish or chicken, or just eat it with a spoon. 

In a large food processor bowl, add the following:
1 large sweet onion, quartered
2 jalapeno peppers, seeds removed (add a few seeds, if you like extra heat)
1 handful fresh cilantro
About 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper (I grind 12-14 times)
Onion granules (about 1/2 teaspoon)
Garlic granules (about 1/2 teaspoon)
*I also add about 1/4-1/2 teaspoon Possum's Seasoning, but you could use any seasoning blend or omit)

Pulse onion, peppers, herb & seasoning 4 times

Pulse mixture 4 times, then add the following:

Fresh paste tomatoes (large slicing tomatoes elicit more juice), enough to fill the processor bowl; I used 14 San Marzanos.  Remove blossom end and slice tomatoes in half before adding.
*If using canned tomatoes, drain juice before adding fruit from 2 28-ounce cans.

Pulse about 4-6 more times.  Salsa will be chunky and release juice as the tomatoes rest.

Serve immediately or refrigerate and use within a week. 

Hopi corn, a delicious heirloom

Late summer visitors to my home probably think they step into some kind of Weird Science experiment.  A dehydrator perfumes the air with dried tomato aroma, half-gallon Mason jars, filled with vinegar and herbs, line the back side of a counter, the butcher block and kitchen tables groan under the weight of hundreds of ripe tomatoes and strings of colorful peppers hang in the south-facing window.   Half-full glasses of murky liquids stand next to drying seeds and paper labels on glass plates fill every spare inch of available space.  Recently canned foods are ready to label and store in the basement pantry and even my dining room curtain rod holds a food ingredient, carefully tied between the open drapes.  Yes, Dear Guest, your eyes do not deceive you.  It is corn.

The dining room is a perfect drying environment for Hopi corn

Blue Hopi corn, to be precise.  For the past few years, Richard and I make a point to attend the Ashe County seed swap, an annual event where gardeners gather to share seeds, participate in workshops and network with other like-minded folks.  Admission is free and attendees take seeds with an honor system pledge to grow the plants and return the following year to share seeds with others.  A couple of years ago, I packaged my grandmothers' heirloom seeds and placed them on a table for others to take while I helped myself to pepper, bean and flower seeds.  An envelope of beautiful blue corn seeds intrigued me and I recalled a magazine article about Hopi blue corn.  Fortunately, the seed saver who grew this variety stood next to her seeds and we discussed the difficulties of protecting heirloom corn crops from marauding crows and raccoons as I ran my fingers over the kernels, noting the differences in color and size, unlike the cookie-cutter sameness of industrially produced seed.  The garnet red, indigo blue and deep pink mixture was beautiful.  I grabbed an envelope and scrawled "Blue Hopi Corn" on the front.  Scooping a handful into the opening, I thanked the seed saver and looked forward to planting at Heart & Sole.

Hopi corn silks are beautiful "redheads"

Later that spring, whirling pinwheels protected seedlings from crows and when silks formed, I applied a mist of mineral oil to each developing ear.  As harvest time neared, I tied a couple of Halloween toys in the stalks, motion-activated ghosts that screamed when anyone walked by, and their presence seemed to deter hungry raccoons.  I would love to have a photograph of those raccoons when they reached for an ear of corn and heard that unearthly noise! 

Sixty-four corn seeds grew strong plants and produced enough corn to eat fresh (deliciously sweet, while in milk stage), grind into grits and meal and dry seeds for the next year's planting.  The following year, I packed a large tub of kernels to return to Ashe County's seed swap and also shared with friends who were eager to grow heirloom corn, a crop that, like other heirloom plants, has been passed through generations of gardeners and produces consistent results.  Other seed, available from retail sources, may be genetically altered to produce higher yields, withstand drought and may even include insecticides that could harm our honey bees.  Since we love those hard-working girls, I refuse to grow any plant that is not beneficial to our pollinators.

Milk stage Hopi corn is sweet & white or yellow

Hopi blue is not for those who crave sugary sweet corn.  Large kernels have a fibrous texture and chewy substance, but for out-of-this-world cornbread or savory grits, Hopi corn is worth any protective measures a farmer can enact to produce a successful crop.

I realize readers are shaking heads and declaring only Silver Queen, Peaches and Cream and other super-sweet varieties are worth growing, but for my time and money, Hopi Blue is THE corn. Guests, take note: those colorful ears dangling from dining room curtain rods are not just rustic autumn decoration.  They are precious heirloom seeds, drying in an optimum environment, protected from pests, and their perpetuation may be crucial to our future food supply.

Mature Hopi corn, ready for drying

For information about how to save Hopi corn seed, visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRuBcdNd8FI

Homemade Catsup, Tasty, but Time Consuming

Recently, I listened to an interview on National Public Radio as I drove to the farm  and a comment from a food expert made me laugh.  When asked what home cooks could do to make a healthy diet difference, the expert replied that people should make their own catsup.  I first attempted this condiment in 2010 and whether you call it catsup or ketchup, it is an arduous task and not something every home cook would choose to make.  Not that it is a difficult recipe, but it takes quite a bit of time. Of course, the homemade taste, not to mention the absence of high fructose corn syrup, is worth the effort.

After I found a basic recipe online, I modified for our family's taste.  We are not fond of sugary sweet catsup, so my recipe uses little sugar and relies on tomatoes' and peppers' natural sweetness.  In 2011, I accidentally dumped some turmeric in the pot of bubbling tomato mixture and with a pleasant result, I incorporated that ingredient in subsequent batches.  To up the ante for pepper flavor, I use a Thai red chile and a couple of sweet Jimmy Nardellos, a beautiful long red pepper that is identified as a member of the Slow Food USA's Ark of Taste.  Foods included in this living catalog are deemed delicious, but face extinction.  Easy to grow and an abundant producer, I recommend this pepper to gardeners who love sweet peppers.

Jimmy Nardello peppers are deep red and sweet

Of course, catsup's main ingredient is the paste tomato and I use a few varieties because I think they make the best product.  Amish Paste, with a heavy feel and dense flesh, is an excellent catsup tomato and with Japanese Plum, another weighty pear-shaped fruit, and San Marzano, it is difficult to make a catsup that is not delicious.  I know many readers are now shaking heads and saying, "What about Romas?"  Don't get me wrong, I like Romas, but after growing numerous paste tomatoes, I find Romas to be inferior in taste and texture to other varieties.  It is too late this year to grow your own, but if you plan to make catsup, check farmer's markets for heirloom paste tomatoes.

Amish Paste tomato

San Marzano tomato

Because it takes so long to reduce, I cook catsup for one day, refrigerate the mixture overnight and finish the following day.  Yes, it is a two-day job.  It is probably not necessary to use an immersion blender to finish this recipe, but if you like smooth catsup, I recommend this tool.  For about twenty bucks, you will find many uses for this handy device, which makes whipping cream and blending soups a snap and is much easier to clean than a standard bar blender.

Japanese Plum tomatoes are a heavy paste variety

Sure, it takes time to make homemade catsup and industrial brands are probably more cost effective, but when you taste the fruits of labor, made with heirloom goodness, you, too, may decide the flavor is worth the effort.  

Finished product

Catsup (August 21, 2014)  
Total Yield = 76 ounces
(Total weight for tomatoes should be about ten pounds)
12 San Marzano tomatoes
4 Japanese Plum tomatoes
18 Amish Paste tomaotes
2 Jimmy Nardello sweet peppers
1 Thai red chile pepper (remove seeds)
4 sweet onions
1 1/2 cups cider vinegar
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon Turmeric
5 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground paprika pepper (I dry and grind these with a mortar and pestle)
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 teaspoons salt (I use coarse Himalayan Pink)
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Wash, trim ends and cut tomatoes in chunks before pureeing them in a food processor with peppers.  Use a food mill to strain the puree and remove skins and seeds.  Puree onions and stir into the tomato mixture in a large stainless steel pot.  Cook and stir occasionally over low heat until the mixture reduces by about one third.  (Note: This step took five hours.)

In a small pot, combine vinegar and  other ingredients and simmer for about thirty minutes.  Use a strainer to remove solids as you add about half the spiced vinegar to the tomato mixture.  Continue cooking and reduce a bit more.  Remove the pot from the heat and place in a deep sink.  Use an immersion blender to smooth the catsup.  Return to heat and cook until the mixture is the desired consistency.

Pour hot mixture into hot jars or bottles, leaving about 1/8 inch headspace.  Use a boiling water bath to process jars for fifteen minutes.  Remove jars from boiling water bath and immediately invert them for five minutes.  Upright jars and cover with a heavy towel for 24 hours.  Check to be sure lids sealed and refrigerate any that fail to do so.