San Marzano Heirloom Tomatoes: NC's New Cash Crop?

One of the most difficult tasks for gardeners is deciding which plants to grow.  When I find seed catalogs in my mailbox, illustrated with an array of appealing photographs, I experience the same enticement I felt as a child when the Sears & Roebuck Christmas Wishbook arrived at our home.  After surveying hundreds of intriguing possibilities,  I tally my costs and begin to whittle my list to include only items I absolutely have to have.  Richard often reminds me that each seed requires a lot of work and he attempts, sometimes futilely, to curb my early-spring enthusiasm.  Fortunately, my seed orders decrease each year as I increase my collection of heirloom seeds, saved from plants I grow at Heart & Sole Gardens. 

After growing heirloom plants for years, I am impressed with their yield, hardiness and flavor and I believe the best heirlooms are ones that produce for generations in the same geographical area.  Unlike hybrid varieties, heirlooms adapt to soil and weather conditions and pass along protective traits in seed.  For best results, seed should be saved from the most desirable, fully ripe, fruits or vegetables.  With each successive generation of plants, gardeners will notice fewer flaws and more perfect specimens.  

My family loves fresh salsa and when tomatoes are not in season and we exhaust our canned summer bounty, I purchase whole canned tomatoes at the supermarket.  Although there are usually several choices, San Marzano tomatoes are more expensive than other types.  Research about this paste tomato reveals a murky past, although San Marzanos, like other domesticated tomatoes, probably originated in Peru. If you are interested to read more about this intriguing fruit, this site is a good resource:  www.sanmarzanotomatoes.org

San Marzano tomatoes, with a thin skin and rich flavor, make delicious salsa

Since San Marzano tomatoes make excellent salsa and they command a premium price, I decided to grow them, but three years ago, when other paste tomatoes produced abundant, beautiful fruit, the San Marzanos struggled.  Their plants, more susceptible to blight than other varieties, yielded few perfect specimens and most deflated on the vine, developed black spots on the skin or concealed a dark rotten spot inside the fruit.  Undeterred by the first, disappointing harvest, I saved seeds from a few nice tomatoes and hoped they would grow plants that would thrive in western NC's climate.  Last year's wet chilly summer season was less than ideal for growing tomatoes, but I did note the San Marzanos yielded fruit that was nicer than the previous year and again, I saved seeds from the best fruit.

Earlier harvests included larger fruit, but 174 SM tomatoes on 9/12/14 is impressive

Perhaps the third time really is a charm, but third-generation San Marzano tomatoes are rock stars at Heart & Sole.  To date, five plants yielded hundreds of pounds of ripe fruit and most of them are free of blemishes.  Two plants are stronger than the others and their fruit is larger and more beautiful, therefore, I only saved seeds from those plants and shared seed fruit with a couple of Charlotte-area farmers who may help to bring this delicious fruit to local markets next year.   Perhaps San Marzano tomatoes could become a major North Carolina crop?  For fresh salsa lovers, that is a goal worth pursuing!

CB's Salsa

Note: I have made this recipe for over thirty years and often share it with friends who claim it does not taste the same when they make it.  I believe salsa, like other "hand" dishes, is a recipe that uses prescribed ingredients, but produces different results with each creator.  It is as if a bit of each cook's personality passes to the dish.   Measurements are not exact; add or subtract, according to individual taste and enjoy fresh salsa (some call it pico de gallo) with chips, grilled fish or chicken, or just eat it with a spoon. 

In a large food processor bowl, add the following:
1 large sweet onion, quartered
2 jalapeno peppers, seeds removed (add a few seeds, if you like extra heat)
1 handful fresh cilantro
About 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper (I grind 12-14 times)
Onion granules (about 1/2 teaspoon)
Garlic granules (about 1/2 teaspoon)
*I also add about 1/4-1/2 teaspoon Possum's Seasoning, but you could use any seasoning blend or omit)

Pulse onion, peppers, herb & seasoning 4 times

Pulse mixture 4 times, then add the following:

Fresh paste tomatoes (large slicing tomatoes elicit more juice), enough to fill the processor bowl; I used 14 San Marzanos.  Remove blossom end and slice tomatoes in half before adding.
*If using canned tomatoes, drain juice before adding fruit from 2 28-ounce cans.

Pulse about 4-6 more times.  Salsa will be chunky and release juice as the tomatoes rest.

Serve immediately or refrigerate and use within a week.