Thursday, September 25, 2014

Support Local Food at the Source, Go to the FAIR!

Flashing lights, clanging bells, bellowing cattle, roasting peanuts and whirling amusement rides.  Yes, it's that time of year when North Carolinians celebrate all things agricultural at local fairs.  Perhaps it has been awhile since you attended such an event and, if that is the case, make plans now to visit an agricultural fair.  For those who support local food, there is no better opportunity to witness, firsthand, the best of what grows in our state.  From local honey to broil-your-tongue fresh peppers, an agricultural fair is a chance to see the incredible variety of what NC produces.

When I was a child, my brother, cousins and I eagerly anticipated the annual agricultural fair.  It was a time to stuff ourselves with candy apples, pluck plastic ducks from a trough of water to win a prize and let our imaginations run wild as we made our way through the haunted house.  Although we loved every trip to the fair, one year stands out in my memory.

My brother, Dale, was about three years old when he discovered a garden hose attached to a water faucet near the farm animal barn.  Breaking free from our group, he grabbed the spray nozzle and, to his delight, discovered the water was on and he was in control of a powerful toy.  My mother called to him to rejoin us, but he was in his element, spraying water in a wide circle.  My grandmother began to walk toward him, but he turned the nozzle and sprayed her.  It was the only time I can recall seeing my grandmother run, high-stepping in retreat as my brother soaked the back of her green dress.  My cousins and I attempted to encircle the culprit, who was now screaming with laughter, but each time one of us tried to approach him, he would turn the water on us.  Finally, my mother braved the blast and walked through the stream to wrestle the nozzle from her son's grasp, her bouffant hairdo wilting under the soaking water.  Wringing water from our clothing, we walked to our car, our fair visit cut short.  As we drove away, someone began to giggle and soon, the entire group was laughing, tears adding more moisture to our already wet faces.  To this day, it is a memory that makes me laugh aloud.

Earlier this week, I packed boxes of canned goods and fresh produce and delivered them to the Caldwell County Fairgrounds where I found Darlene Berry, Seth Nagy, Dolly Whisnant, Nancy Clark, Maggie Miller, Lois Hoyle, Lee Cox and Dick Mitchell, fair organizers and directors, whose hard work and planning are evident.  My friend, Karen Storie Glasscock, received several blue and red ribbons for her entries in the Mocksville, NC, fair, and she and I have a friendly competition to see who will win the most prizes.   Although award money is minimal, pride is at stake and Karen threw the gauntlet this year.   Competition at agricultural fairs is friendly, but I admit I will be sorely disappointed if my pretty pickled cherry tomatoes do not receive a prize!

A couple of Karen's prize ribbons from the Mocksville Fair

Local fairs focus on youth groups and visitors are inspired by a wide range of entries from young people, ages 5-19.  From food preservation to arts and crafts to horticulture and many other categories, it is gratifying to see the efforts of these talented youngsters.  The Junior Beef Heifer Show, open to exhibitors under 21 years old, is a hotly contested and thrilling event.  Caldwell County's show will be held on Saturday, September 27th, at 2 pm. 

It is not too late to plan a trip to a local fair.  Rowan County, Atlantic District, Caldwell County, Chowan County, Moore County and Madison County fairs run through Saturday, the 27th and the Harnett Regional fair ends on Sunday, the 28th.  Wayne, Wilkes, Onslow, Stanley and Cleveland Counties all host fairs during the first week of October and the BIG SHOW, the NC State Fair, will be in Raleigh from October 16-26.  Revisit your childhood with a trip to one of these events or take a child.  Just be sure to keep an eye out for unguarded water hoses!
Richard carries our son, Clark, into the Caldwell Fair, 1988. 

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Heirloom Seed Saving, Perpetuating a Delicious Heritage

The beautiful array of colorful heirloom tomatoes that entice summer farmer's market shoppers are perhaps even more dear because their season is brief.  Tangy greens, candy-sweet pinks, earthy purples and citrus-scented yellows beguile our taste buds and delight our eyes.  Limited garden space and busy schedules prevent many of us from growing all the varieties we love, but with the appropriate container, almost anyone can harvest enough tomatoes to satisfy personal desires.  Plan now to grow a favorite heirloom tomato next year.

Caldwell Co. gardener, Ralph Triplett, grows this heirloom with seed he saves each year
For those interested in preserving agricultural heritage or employing sustainable growing techniques, heirloom seed saving is an important practice.  Preserve seed from fruit or vegetable specimens that exhibit the most desirable characteristics and note subsequent plants will produce higher yields, be more resistant to pests and disease and perform better in less-than-ideal weather growing conditions.  A nice side benefit for seed savers is harvesting food that is far superior in taste to supermarket wares. 




Although any heirloom plant seed may be saved for future planting seasons, tomatoes are a delicious beginning lesson for seed saving newbies.  Yes, it is possible to just smear tomato seeds on a paper towel, allow them to dry and then pull them from the paper to plant, but with a little time and patience, tomato seeds will be clean and ready to grow next spring.  Before eating that perfect specimen you purchased at the farmer's market, follow these simple steps to save seeds and enjoy growing your own heirloom tomatoes, either in your garden or a container. 

1.  Select fruit that is fully ripe and free of blemishes. 

2.  Slice the bottom (blossom) end to expose seeds.

3.  Squeeze seeds into a clear drinking glass or jar.

4.  Add water to cover seeds and pulp and use a spoon or finger to agitate contents.
Viable seeds sink to the bottom

5.  The following day, slowly pour off the pulpy water, taking care to leave seeds in the bottom of the container.

6.  Add fresh water to cover seeds and agitate.
Remove pulpy water and add clear until seeds are clean

8.  When water is clear, typically 1-3 days, leave a small amount of water with the seeds and pour contents onto a glass plate.

9.  Place plate out of direct sunlight until water has evaporated and seeds are completely dry, about 3 days.
A glass plate is best for drying seeds

10.  Use a knife or fingernail to carefully remove seeds from the plate and place them in a paper envelope.  Label the contents, with the date, and store seeds in a dry environment.  (An office desk or bedroom drawer is usually a good place to store seeds.)








As you join legions of heirloom seed savers, look forward to growing your own delicious fruit next year.  How to enjoy that first ripe tomato will likely be a difficult decision.  Sandwich?  Pie?  Salsa?  Sauce?  Give yourself permission to savor that first bite, alone, juice dripping from your chin, as you wait for the next ripe fruit. 

Monday, September 15, 2014

San Marzano Heirloom Tomatoes: NC's New Cash Crop?

One of the most difficult tasks for gardeners is deciding which plants to grow.  When I find seed catalogs in my mailbox, illustrated with an array of appealing photographs, I experience the same enticement I felt as a child when the Sears & Roebuck Christmas Wishbook arrived at our home.  After surveying hundreds of intriguing possibilities,  I tally my costs and begin to whittle my list to include only items I absolutely have to have.  Richard often reminds me that each seed requires a lot of work and he attempts, sometimes futilely, to curb my early-spring enthusiasm.  Fortunately, my seed orders decrease each year as I increase my collection of heirloom seeds, saved from plants I grow at Heart & Sole Gardens. 

After growing heirloom plants for years, I am impressed with their yield, hardiness and flavor and I believe the best heirlooms are ones that produce for generations in the same geographical area.  Unlike hybrid varieties, heirlooms adapt to soil and weather conditions and pass along protective traits in seed.  For best results, seed should be saved from the most desirable, fully ripe, fruits or vegetables.  With each successive generation of plants, gardeners will notice fewer flaws and more perfect specimens.  

My family loves fresh salsa and when tomatoes are not in season and we exhaust our canned summer bounty, I purchase whole canned tomatoes at the supermarket.  Although there are usually several choices, San Marzano tomatoes are more expensive than other types.  Research about this paste tomato reveals a murky past, although San Marzanos, like other domesticated tomatoes, probably originated in Peru. If you are interested to read more about this intriguing fruit, this site is a good resource:  www.sanmarzanotomatoes.org

San Marzano tomatoes, with a thin skin and rich flavor, make delicious salsa


Since San Marzano tomatoes make excellent salsa and they command a premium price, I decided to grow them, but three years ago, when other paste tomatoes produced abundant, beautiful fruit, the San Marzanos struggled.  Their plants, more susceptible to blight than other varieties, yielded few perfect specimens and most deflated on the vine, developed black spots on the skin or concealed a dark rotten spot inside the fruit.  Undeterred by the first, disappointing harvest, I saved seeds from a few nice tomatoes and hoped they would grow plants that would thrive in western NC's climate.  Last year's wet chilly summer season was less than ideal for growing tomatoes, but I did note the San Marzanos yielded fruit that was nicer than the previous year and again, I saved seeds from the best fruit.

Earlier harvests included larger fruit, but 174 SM tomatoes on 9/12/14 is impressive

Perhaps the third time really is a charm, but third-generation San Marzano tomatoes are rock stars at Heart & Sole.  To date, five plants yielded hundreds of pounds of ripe fruit and most of them are free of blemishes.  Two plants are stronger than the others and their fruit is larger and more beautiful, therefore, I only saved seeds from those plants and shared seed fruit with a couple of Charlotte-area farmers who may help to bring this delicious fruit to local markets next year.   Perhaps San Marzano tomatoes could become a major North Carolina crop?  For fresh salsa lovers, that is a goal worth pursuing!

CB's Salsa

Note: I have made this recipe for over thirty years and often share it with friends who claim it does not taste the same when they make it.  I believe salsa, like other "hand" dishes, is a recipe that uses prescribed ingredients, but produces different results with each creator.  It is as if a bit of each cook's personality passes to the dish.   Measurements are not exact; add or subtract, according to individual taste and enjoy fresh salsa (some call it pico de gallo) with chips, grilled fish or chicken, or just eat it with a spoon. 

In a large food processor bowl, add the following:
1 large sweet onion, quartered
2 jalapeno peppers, seeds removed (add a few seeds, if you like extra heat)
1 handful fresh cilantro
About 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper (I grind 12-14 times)
Onion granules (about 1/2 teaspoon)
Garlic granules (about 1/2 teaspoon)
*I also add about 1/4-1/2 teaspoon Possum's Seasoning, but you could use any seasoning blend or omit)
Pulse onion, peppers, herb & seasoning 4 times


Pulse mixture 4 times, then add the following:

Fresh paste tomatoes (large slicing tomatoes elicit more juice), enough to fill the processor bowl; I used 14 San Marzanos.  Remove blossom end and slice tomatoes in half before adding.
*If using canned tomatoes, drain juice before adding fruit from 2 28-ounce cans.
Pulse about 4-6 more times.  Salsa will be chunky and release juice as the tomatoes rest.

Serve immediately or refrigerate and use within a week. 



Sunday, September 7, 2014

Hopi corn, a delicious heirloom

Late summer visitors to my home probably think they step into some kind of Weird Science experiment.  A dehydrator perfumes the air with dried tomato aroma, half-gallon Mason jars, filled with vinegar and herbs, line the back side of a counter, the butcher block and kitchen tables groan under the weight of hundreds of ripe tomatoes and strings of colorful peppers hang in the south-facing window.   Half-full glasses of murky liquids stand next to drying seeds and paper labels on glass plates fill every spare inch of available space.  Recently canned foods are ready to label and store in the basement pantry and even my dining room curtain rod holds a food ingredient, carefully tied between the open drapes.  Yes, Dear Guest, your eyes do not deceive you.  It is corn.
The dining room is a perfect drying environment for Hopi corn

Blue Hopi corn, to be precise.  For the past few years, Richard and I make a point to attend the Ashe County seed swap, an annual event where gardeners gather to share seeds, participate in workshops and network with other like-minded folks.  Admission is free and attendees take seeds with an honor system pledge to grow the plants and return the following year to share seeds with others.  A couple of years ago, I packaged my grandmothers' heirloom seeds and placed them on a table for others to take while I helped myself to pepper, bean and flower seeds.  An envelope of beautiful blue corn seeds intrigued me and I recalled a magazine article about Hopi blue corn.  Fortunately, the seed saver who grew this variety stood next to her seeds and we discussed the difficulties of protecting heirloom corn crops from marauding crows and raccoons as I ran my fingers over the kernels, noting the differences in color and size, unlike the cookie-cutter sameness of industrially produced seed.  The garnet red, indigo blue and deep pink mixture was beautiful.  I grabbed an envelope and scrawled "Blue Hopi Corn" on the front.  Scooping a handful into the opening, I thanked the seed saver and looked forward to planting at Heart & Sole.
Hopi corn silks are beautiful "redheads"

Later that spring, whirling pinwheels protected seedlings from crows and when silks formed, I applied a mist of mineral oil to each developing ear.  As harvest time neared, I tied a couple of Halloween toys in the stalks, motion-activated ghosts that screamed when anyone walked by, and their presence seemed to deter hungry raccoons.  I would love to have a photograph of those raccoons when they reached for an ear of corn and heard that unearthly noise! 

Sixty-four corn seeds grew strong plants and produced enough corn to eat fresh (deliciously sweet, while in milk stage), grind into grits and meal and dry seeds for the next year's planting.  The following year, I packed a large tub of kernels to return to Ashe County's seed swap and also shared with friends who were eager to grow heirloom corn, a crop that, like other heirloom plants, has been passed through generations of gardeners and produces consistent results.  Other seed, available from retail sources, may be genetically altered to produce higher yields, withstand drought and may even include insecticides that could harm our honey bees.  Since we love those hard-working girls, I refuse to grow any plant that is not beneficial to our pollinators.
Milk stage Hopi corn is sweet & white or yellow

Hopi blue is not for those who crave sugary sweet corn.  Large kernels have a fibrous texture and chewy substance, but for out-of-this-world cornbread or savory grits, Hopi corn is worth any protective measures a farmer can enact to produce a successful crop.

I realize readers are shaking heads and declaring only Silver Queen, Peaches and Cream and other super-sweet varieties are worth growing, but for my time and money, Hopi Blue is THE corn. Guests, take note: those colorful ears dangling from dining room curtain rods are not just rustic autumn decoration.  They are precious heirloom seeds, drying in an optimum environment, protected from pests, and their perpetuation may be crucial to our future food supply.
Mature Hopi corn, ready for drying


For information about how to save Hopi corn seed, visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRuBcdNd8FI