Eggplant, Loved by Every Pest

Eggplants: Beautiful and Delicious

When I was a child, most of our family's produce grew in our own garden or came from someone we knew.  During the summer growing season, my mother prepared beans, squash, cucumbers, corn, okra, tomatoes, potatoes and many other delicious vegetables and fruits, but I never saw an eggplant until, as an adult, I spotted a supermarket bin full of the fruit and I was intrigued by the deep purple flesh, but had no clue how to prepare this ingredient.  Now, after years of growing this plant and cooking its fruit, I can not imagine my garden, or my kitchen, without eggplant.

A member of the nightshade family, early eggplants were small and mostly white, hence the name, and cooks in India and Asian countries prepared eggplant for hundreds of years before it was introduced to European countries.  Historians credit Thomas Jefferson with bringing the first eggplants to the United States, where they were more likely to be ornamental display than food until ethnic dishes began to influence the general population's diet. Like squash, eggplant is a bit bland in flavor, but is a great "canvas" food and it easily incorporates spicy, sweet or savory flavors.

I start almost every plant I grow at Heart & Sole Gardens from heirloom seeds and each year I add at least one eggplant variety to my farm.  Eggplants love hot growing conditions and the tender plants typically have a slow start until the weather is warm enough for them to thrive.  Unfortunately, the flea beetle life cycle usually is at the point of lethal attack when I transplant my eggplants to the farm.  Several years ago, I witnessed that pest destroy my small plants within hours after they touched farm soil, so I now take drastic measures to protect them.  In addition to flea beetles, a variety of worms love to eat eggplant leaves, along with aphids, Colorado potato beetles and mites, plus, eggplants can be susceptible to blights and fungal diseases. 

Flea beetles attack potato leaves, but they love eggplant best

Last week, I decided to transplant eggplants to the farm and, fortunately, my nephew, Ben Hamby, agreed to be my farm helper that day.  Although he confessed he knew little about farming, Ben was a quick study and he impressed me with his attention to detail, his enthusiasm and his strong back.  With a storm approaching, Ben dug holes for the eggplants, I added a cocktail mixture of Epsom salts, blood and bone meal and crushed eggshells.  Ben quickly shoveled a bucket of composted manure to add to the holes while I fetched water from the creek.  Together we set the tender plants in their new homes, watered them and then placed sheer food covers over each eggplant.  I hammered stakes and Ben labeled each variety with duct tape and a permanent marker.  We finished the last of thirty plants just as a drenching rain began to fall.  As we drove away, Ben remarked that he did not know if he liked eggplant.  I assured him, if there is a harvest, we will cook with eggplant and I think he will love it.

With a storm approaching, Ben labels eggplants

Sheer picnic food covers and pinwheels will (hopefully) help protect young plants from pest attack

In a successful growing season, eggplants are one of the most prolific producers.  Be sure to harvest young eggplants before seeds turn dark. For a tasty way to use an abundant crop, try this twist on a hummus recipe.  It is delicious and fun to say, Baba Ghanoush!

Baba Ghanoush

4 small eggplants, halved and lightly coated with olive oil
Preheat oven to 400 degrees and place eggplants, cut side down, on foil-lined baking sheet
Roast eggplants for about 15 minutes, until soft, allow to cool slightly
Use a spoon to scoop out eggplant flesh and place in food processor, discard skin
Add 2 cloves garlic, minced and 2 tablespoons tahini
Pulse until blended, add 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pulse a few times, then add about 1/4 cup sun dried tomatoes, 2 tablespoons pitted kalamata olives and about 1/4 cup olive oil, adding oil and blending until smooth



Serve with pita bread, crackers or tortilla chips

Remembering Rosemary

Rosemary, a hardy, fragrant and delicious perennial herb

In William Shakespeare's play, Hamlet, it was the character, Ophelia, who said, There's rosemary, that's for remembrance; pray, love, remember.  I recalled that line earlier today when I went to weed my kitchen garden herb bed.  A raised 20'x12' area should not be difficult to maintain, but when most of my gardening time is spent at Heart & Sole, sometimes the herb bed suffers and I took advantage of a pleasant weather morning to tackle overgrown areas.  Sadly, I noticed my elderly rosemary bush, planted in 2001, was dead. 

Dead rosemary, planted in 2001

Thankfully, a couple of years ago, when the herb began to show signs of aging, I took cuttings from the plant and stuck them in a vase of water on my kitchen window sill.  Those small branches took root and I placed them in the herb bed near the parent plant.  Today, those cuttings are a thriving small bush and I am glad to have rosemary included in my herb collection.  One of the hardiest herbs for our area, rosemary blossoms are a beautiful shade of blue and the plant usually blooms during cold winter days, imparting a rare glimpse of coming spring.  Woody rosemary branches make excellent skewers for grilling meats and vegetables and I like to place them, along with other herbs, under beef or lamb before oven roasting.  The herbs form a natural and flavorful roasting rack for the meat.  Rosemary is a primary ingredient in many of my herbed vinegar recipes and the branches make sturdy additions to flower arrangements. 

As I surveyed the two rosemary bushes, one vibrant green and the other a tangle of brown, brittle branches, I reflected upon how gardening mirrors other life cycles.  Birth, reproduction and death are all important components of a healthy garden.  Even though the dead rosemary bush will no longer produce its pungent leaves, I cut each branch and put them in a huge plastic bag.  Chef Clark Barlowe plans to use the branches for smoking meats at Heirloom Restaurant and I am glad this beloved plant will have one final culinary use.  As I cut the branches away from the gnarled trunk, I discovered one of the rosemary branches was bent to the ground.  Where it touched the soil, the branch formed roots and a plant was growing from this branch.  Smiling at the unexpected surprise, I trimmed away the dead branches and tidied the plant's area.  It is not the prettiest rosemary shrub, but tucked into the back of my herb bed, against the south-facing wall of our home, it may survive for quite some time. At any rate, after thirteen productive years, I think it deserves a chance.

Before its death, the elderly rosemary produced an offspring  

Add fresh herbs to dishes for flavor and nutritional value.  Herbs also are a delicious alternative to salt.  One of the easiest ways to use herbs, this recipe is a family favorite at my home.  Use the herbs in the recipe or others you like.  This recipe is about mixing flavorful herbs and is a great one to vary, according to taste preference.  Sometimes, I add minced garlic or onions or the pink "blossoms," called bubils, on garlic scapes.  Whether you grow your own herbs or purchase them at a farmer's market, be sure to select plants with tender, young leaves.  If you pick your own, harvest them in the morning when they pack more flavor.

Garlic bubils add visual interest and flavor to chopped herbs

Herb Dip

1 sprig rosemary and 3 sprigs thyme, remove leaves from woody stems, discard stems
2 basil leaves
2 sage leaves
2 small sprigs dill
1 small fennel frond
1 small borage leaf
5 sprigs flat leaf parsley
1 sprig oregano, remove leaves and discard stem
5 chives, onion or garlic varieties, or both

Place all herb leaves on a large cutting board and finely chop with a large knife.
In a serving bowl, add chopped herbs, a pinch of dried red pepper flakes, a tiny pinch of salt (optional) and a few grinds of black pepper.
Pour good quality olive oil over mixture, add a splash of balsamic vinegar and immediately serve with warm bread.

The gnarled rosemary trunk attests to the plant's longevity

In the Weeds

When my son, Clark Barlowe, chef owner of Heirloom Restaurant, says he is "in the weeds," he means something very different from my farmer's definition.  Rather than scrambling to feed hungry restaurant guests, my version of being in weeds means trying to remove them from plants I am actually trying to grow.  During a recent visit to Heart & Sole Gardens, Clark identified a weed that grows prolifically in our cultivated acreage as lambsquarters, an edible weed that is delicious in salads or cooked like other greens.  With a spinach-like flavor, it is currently a culinary darling among restaurant chefs and commands a hefty price at local farmer's markets.  Who knew?  Richard claims he used the weed eater to whack thousands of dollars' worth of lambsquarters, just this spring. 

Lambsquarters, easy to identify and delicious

Since there are only two of us, past the age of youthful, exuberant physical labor, Richard and I often share delineation of farm duties; however, when it comes to weeding, I find it is easier to weed alone, rather than endure Richard's frustrated sighs and bitter complaints.  He will happily use the tractor to bush hog fields, whack weeds for hours or even hoe small areas, but he absolutely detests pulling weeds by hand.  With my Atlas gloves, a Mother's Day gift from my daughter, Kate, I almost enjoy plucking morning glories, cockleburs and other invasive species from my planted rows, but recent rain and warm temperatures generated more weeds than crops, so for the past several days, weeding has been a primary task, one that I will admit has been less than fun.

Heart & Sole honeybees love clover, so we allow it to grow

My thoughtful mother-in-law gave me a small garden stool, but I find squatting and crabwalking translates to faster weeding, so I use a technique I think of as the "soldier squat."  Years ago, a coworker related stories about his father, a WWII Bataan Death March survivor, who was forced to squat for hours on end, along with other US prisoners, when guards would take breaks from the horrific journey.  According to my coworker's father, if a prisoner fell to his knees or could not maintain the position, his captors killed him.  On Memorial Day and on June 6, 2014, the 70th anniversary of D-Day, I spent hours weeding by hand.  As I squatted, my behind resting on the backs of my calves, my thighs aching, I thought about those soldiers who squatted for long periods of time.  I imagined how much easier that physical challenge would have been if there had been a task to occupy the prisoners' minds.  I pulled handfuls of invasive weeds and carefully teased others away from tender roots and when I thought about those brave men who survived inhumane treatment, I was grateful.  Perhaps a neat row of corn, beans or parsnips is not the most spectacular tribute to sacrifices made by our WWII veterans, but then again, maybe it is exactly the sort of "job well done" these heroes appreciate.  After all, Victory Gardens, those patches of fruits and vegetables homefront folks grew during the War, alleviated food shortages and fostered a spirit of patriotism. The US Department of Agriculture estimates that during the war, over twenty million Victory Gardens provided fruits and vegetables to US citizens and inspired returning soldiers and their families to continue the agricultural practice of growing backyard food.

Hopi Blue Corn, Momentarily Weed-Free

For a taste of sweet victory over weeds, try this recipe.  Of course, fresh spinach may be substituted for lambsquarters, but for a unique flavor and more nutritional punch, the weed is the ultimate ingredient.  Red pepper flakes are optional, but if used, this recipe includes 6 "quarters" ingredients.  Note:  After trying the dip, Richard agreed to be more careful with the weed whacker!

Six Quarters Dip

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Spray a small baking dish or 4 ramekins with vegetable oil spray.

1 tablespoon pecan oil (may use olive oil or vegetable oil, but a friend shared pecan oil with me and I love the light, silky texture and delicate flavor for this recipe)
4 cups fresh, tender tops lambsquarters
1/4 cup diced sweet onion
1 clove garlic, minced

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium high heat.  Add garlic and onion, saute for about 2 minutes, until translucent.  Add greens and toss to combine.  Cook briefly over heat until greens are limp, about 2-3 minutes.

In a large bowl, combine the following:

1 12 ounce jar artichoke quarters, drained
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon sea salt (I used French grey)
A few grinds of black pepper
1/4 cup cheese (I used feta crumbles and mozzarella, but any favorite will work)

Fold the greens, garlic and onion into the mixture and stir to combine.  Pour mixture into ramekins or baking dish.  Bake in preheated oven for about 10 minutes.  Remove from oven and top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.  Return to oven, bake for another 5 minutes.  Briefly broil for about 1-2 minutes until cheese is golden.  Serve hot with assorted crudities, crackers or crusty bread. 

Lambsquarters dip, before baking

Lambsquarters dip, after baking

Herbed Vinegar, a Homemade Treat

Herbed Vinegar, Simple to Make and Fun to Share

Whether herbs grow in a special garden, as companion plants for vegetables, or in containers, these hardy, versatile plants are delicious, flavorful ingredients welcome in any kitchen.  Fresh or dried, herbs add nutrition and interest to almost any dish.  One of the easiest ways to preserve fresh herb flavor is to make herbed vinegar.  In addition to enjoying herbed vinegar in your own kitchen, the infusion makes a special gift that will please recipients.

Shiso basil adds color and flavor to herbed vinegar

While herbs are in season and abundantly producing, harvest fresh leaves and blossoms in morning hours, when herbs pack the strongest flavor punch.  For a beautiful pink vinegar with Italian flavor tones, use the following recipe:

Herbed Italian Vinegar

Fill a large glass jar with herbs, such as basil, oregano, parsley, garlic and onion chives and thyme that enhance the flavors of Italian dishes.  Shiso basil, with its dark purple leaf, will turn the vinegar a lovely shade of pink, as will mature garlic scapes and onion chive blossoms.  When the jar is about one half full of herbs, fill it with white vinegar, leaving about two inches of headspace.  Wipe the mouth of the jar clean and tightly secure a lid.  Place the jar out of direct sunlight and agitate the contents daily for two weeks.  After two weeks, strain the vinegar through cheesecloth or a coffee filter and discard the solids.  Fill pretty bottles with the herbed vinegar and add a sprig of fresh herbs, such as thyme or rosemary, to the bottle.

Simple to make, herbed vinegars add zing to almost any dish and are wonderful to use for pickling recipes.  Experiment with different vinegars, herbs and spices.  Borage blossoms also make a light pink vinegar and impart a delicate cucumber essence.  For a lemon-flavored vinegar, use fresh lemons, sliced in half, along with lemon thyme, lemon balm, lemon verbena.  Add Thai peppers and basil to rice vinegar.  Whole peppercorns add a bit of zip to any recipe and fresh berries or other fruits work well for sweeter infusions.  I like white vinegars for showcasing color, but cider vinegars also make delicious herbed concoctions. 

Garlic scapes enhance Italian herbed vinegar with color and flavor

Note:  Metal jar lids and rings will rust if they are in contact with vinegar.  I save plastic lids from mayonnaise jars and use those for vinegar infusions.  Also, small condiment and other pretty bottles are great to recycle for herbed vinegars.  Remove the labels, run the bottles through the dishwasher and fill with vinegar.  Make your own labels for a special touch.