In the Weeds

When my son, Clark Barlowe, chef owner of Heirloom Restaurant, says he is "in the weeds," he means something very different from my farmer's definition.  Rather than scrambling to feed hungry restaurant guests, my version of being in weeds means trying to remove them from plants I am actually trying to grow.  During a recent visit to Heart & Sole Gardens, Clark identified a weed that grows prolifically in our cultivated acreage as lambsquarters, an edible weed that is delicious in salads or cooked like other greens.  With a spinach-like flavor, it is currently a culinary darling among restaurant chefs and commands a hefty price at local farmer's markets.  Who knew?  Richard claims he used the weed eater to whack thousands of dollars' worth of lambsquarters, just this spring. 

Lambsquarters, easy to identify and delicious

Since there are only two of us, past the age of youthful, exuberant physical labor, Richard and I often share delineation of farm duties; however, when it comes to weeding, I find it is easier to weed alone, rather than endure Richard's frustrated sighs and bitter complaints.  He will happily use the tractor to bush hog fields, whack weeds for hours or even hoe small areas, but he absolutely detests pulling weeds by hand.  With my Atlas gloves, a Mother's Day gift from my daughter, Kate, I almost enjoy plucking morning glories, cockleburs and other invasive species from my planted rows, but recent rain and warm temperatures generated more weeds than crops, so for the past several days, weeding has been a primary task, one that I will admit has been less than fun.

Heart & Sole honeybees love clover, so we allow it to grow

My thoughtful mother-in-law gave me a small garden stool, but I find squatting and crabwalking translates to faster weeding, so I use a technique I think of as the "soldier squat."  Years ago, a coworker related stories about his father, a WWII Bataan Death March survivor, who was forced to squat for hours on end, along with other US prisoners, when guards would take breaks from the horrific journey.  According to my coworker's father, if a prisoner fell to his knees or could not maintain the position, his captors killed him.  On Memorial Day and on June 6, 2014, the 70th anniversary of D-Day, I spent hours weeding by hand.  As I squatted, my behind resting on the backs of my calves, my thighs aching, I thought about those soldiers who squatted for long periods of time.  I imagined how much easier that physical challenge would have been if there had been a task to occupy the prisoners' minds.  I pulled handfuls of invasive weeds and carefully teased others away from tender roots and when I thought about those brave men who survived inhumane treatment, I was grateful.  Perhaps a neat row of corn, beans or parsnips is not the most spectacular tribute to sacrifices made by our WWII veterans, but then again, maybe it is exactly the sort of "job well done" these heroes appreciate.  After all, Victory Gardens, those patches of fruits and vegetables homefront folks grew during the War, alleviated food shortages and fostered a spirit of patriotism. The US Department of Agriculture estimates that during the war, over twenty million Victory Gardens provided fruits and vegetables to US citizens and inspired returning soldiers and their families to continue the agricultural practice of growing backyard food.

Hopi Blue Corn, Momentarily Weed-Free

For a taste of sweet victory over weeds, try this recipe.  Of course, fresh spinach may be substituted for lambsquarters, but for a unique flavor and more nutritional punch, the weed is the ultimate ingredient.  Red pepper flakes are optional, but if used, this recipe includes 6 "quarters" ingredients.  Note:  After trying the dip, Richard agreed to be more careful with the weed whacker!

Six Quarters Dip

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Spray a small baking dish or 4 ramekins with vegetable oil spray.

1 tablespoon pecan oil (may use olive oil or vegetable oil, but a friend shared pecan oil with me and I love the light, silky texture and delicate flavor for this recipe)
4 cups fresh, tender tops lambsquarters
1/4 cup diced sweet onion
1 clove garlic, minced

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium high heat.  Add garlic and onion, saute for about 2 minutes, until translucent.  Add greens and toss to combine.  Cook briefly over heat until greens are limp, about 2-3 minutes.

In a large bowl, combine the following:

1 12 ounce jar artichoke quarters, drained
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon sea salt (I used French grey)
A few grinds of black pepper
1/4 cup cheese (I used feta crumbles and mozzarella, but any favorite will work)

Fold the greens, garlic and onion into the mixture and stir to combine.  Pour mixture into ramekins or baking dish.  Bake in preheated oven for about 10 minutes.  Remove from oven and top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.  Return to oven, bake for another 5 minutes.  Briefly broil for about 1-2 minutes until cheese is golden.  Serve hot with assorted crudities, crackers or crusty bread. 

Lambsquarters dip, before baking

Lambsquarters dip, after baking