Heirloom Garlic, Spring Tonic

Garlic scapes, the flowering head of the plant, are delicious

 
Despite its reputation as a vampire repellent, or perhaps because of that purported quality, garlic is a food most people either love or loathe.  There is not a lot of middle ground for garlic and I am definitely a garlic-growing and eating fan. One of the oldest horticultural crops, garlic originated in Central Asia and according to information posted on the USDA website, there is evidence Chinese and Babylonians used garlic over two thousand years ago.  Lauded by some as an aphrodisiac, garlic is generally classified in two categories.  Hardneck, a variety that produces stalks that bloom and are actually a cluster of bubils, rather than blossoms, is hardier for colder climates, but does not store as well as softneck varieties, which produce no scapes, more cloves and have a skin that dries for better long-term storage.  A hardneck variety that likely came from European immigrants grows at our farm and I love to see these beautiful heirloom plants multiply their numbers each year. 

The first potatoes of the season for Heart & Sole: Charlotte & Purple Viking

Earlier this week, I discovered a bag of asparagus trim, the ends I culled from spears, in my refrigerator drawer.  I planned to make a soup from them and when I noticed several other vegetable "scraps" on hand, I knew it was time.  With potato plants blooming, we carefully "robbed" a couple of hills of the first developing tubers.  When I pushed a shovel into the garlic row at Heart & Sole Gardens and harvested the largest bulb ever, I discovered the base for a nice spring "tonic" soup.  Incorporating some tiny rainbow carrots with beautiful tops, wild onions, dandelion greens, fresh herbs and every part of the fresh, green garlic, the end result was both super-healthy and delicious. 

Green garlic stems, carrots with tops and other veggies in the stock pot

Versatile and easy to grow, garlic was not widely produced in the United States until the late 1980s, when the Soviet Union allowed USDA representatives to purchase and gather seed and plants from the Caucasus Mountain region.  The USDA reps delivered garlic seed and bulbs to volunteer farms across the US, forming the basis of what would become industrial garlic farms.  As chefs and home cooks discovered the delicious possibilities of garlic, its popularity soared and it would be difficult to imagine a modern pantry devoid of garlic.  When you visit the farmer's market, be sure to look for fresh green garlic and scapes.  Whether you make this soup or create your own special dish, garlic will be an intriguing, healthy and delicious ingredient.  The vampire-repelling quality is an added bonus.

Spring Tonic Soup
The secret to good soup is time.  The reward for slow cooking stock is a rich, flavorful soup base.

Roast 1 large or 2 small green garlic bulbs in 400 degree oven for about an hour.  Reserve.

1 pound asparagus ends (it does not matter if they are tough)
Tops and stalks from 2 green garlic bulbs  
5 Wild Onion bulbs, cleaned, white parts only
1/2 cup fresh parsley
1 cup fresh dandelion greens
1 small fennel bulb, with fronds
1/2 pound baby carrots, with tops
7-8 springs fresh thyme
10 fresh garlic chives
1-2 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp whole peppercorns
4 1/2 quarts water

Pour water over all ingredients in a large stockpot.  Bring to a boil, pot uncovered, and then  lower heat to medium low.  Cook for about 6 hours, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by about half.  Remove pot from heat and strain solids from liquid.  Compost solids, reserve liquid.  The stock will be a beautiful dark olive green color.

About 1 cup thinly sliced new potatoes, skins scrubbed, but unpeeled
2 tablespoons butter (omit if vegan)
1 tablespoon olive oil (Increase to 2 tablespoons if vegan)
1 tablespoon roasted garlic, squeezed from bulb
4 cups fresh radish tops
1/4 - 1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)

Melt butter in a large pot.  Add olive oil.  Add potatoes, roasted garlic, and radish tops.  Stir and cook over medium low heat until greens wilt, about 4-5 minutes.  Add 2 quarts reserved vegetable stock.  Cook over medium heat for about 25 minutes, until potatoes are very soft.

Use an immersion blender to puree potato mixture until smooth or working in batches, place mixture in blender and blend until smooth. Stir over medium heat until hot, but not boiling, and add cream, if desired.  Ladle hot soup into serving bowls and garnish with edible flowers or croutons.

Edible flowers garnish spring soup