Spring planting, better than the gym

It doesn't happen as often as it used to, but sometimes, friends invite me to accompany them to the gym.  While elliptical machines, treadmills and stationary bicycles are excellent tools for toning one's body, I prefer a different kind of workout.  Last Saturday's potato planting was a perfect example of why I politely refuse gym invites. . .

Ripped Potato Field

With partly cloudy skies, a pleasantly warm afternoon and two hundred pounds of seed potatoes, my husband, Richard, and I decided to plant.  Last week, Richard used a tractor implement called a ripper to turn the field, but on Saturday, we attached a disc and Richard proceeded to cultivate the almost one-acre expanse while I tidied the strawberry row, cut seed potatoes into pieces for planting and moved wire cages from another field where we will plant later crops.

Richard Discs the Field

As I wielded a sharp paring knife to cut the potatoes, I admired their differences.  From deep purple, to dark pink, golden yellow and bright white, each variety boasts a unique flesh color and texture.  Usually, I cut the potatoes a couple of days before planting, to allow them to dry before going into the ground, but with unpredictable weather patterns lately, that was not possible this year.

  

Switching from the disc to a plow, Richard laid rows while I carried buckets of sand from the creek "beach" to add to soil where artichokes will, hopefully, grow this year.  Finally, we began the arduous task of placing the potato pieces in the prepared rows.  Potatoes have "eyes" where sprouts will form and we cut seed potatoes into pieces and place them in deep soil with the eyes facing up.  The rule of thumb for cutting seed potatoes is that if a potato is smaller than a hen's egg, it should be planted whole.  Since we planted thirteen varieties of potatoes on Saturday, we had thousands of pieces to place.  Dropping potatoes into the rows is much easier, but invariably, the pieces will land with the eyes facing down, so we choose to place our seed by hand.  While in a deep squat position (gym terminology!), we stretch as far as possible in each direction, spacing potatoes about ten to twelve inches apart.  Neither of us is able to place more than eight before moving to another deep squat position a bit further down the row. 

As we filled each row with potatoes, Richard used another tractor implement, the hiller, to pull soil over the potatoes in tall mounds.  Until last year, we used hand rakes to cover the potatoes, so it is easy to see why the hiller is our favorite farm tool.  Each potato row is approximately 250 feet long and we planted nine rows on Saturday.  Our only break was around three in the afternoon, a ten-minute time when we ate sandwiches while standing.  As the sun set, we admired the perfect rows and took a moment to appreciate the absence of weeds, which will soon begin to appear among our emerging potato plants, along with those voracious insect pests, Colorado potato beetles.  This season's first-to-arrive Purple Martin, a migratory bird that lives in our birdhouse gourds, watched us from his perch.  Soon, his family will join him.

Purple Martin Inspects Our Work

Finally, it was too dark to see clearly and we loaded our tools while we enjoyed listening to a concert performance by "peepers," tiny frogs that hatch with the first warm days and loudly announce their arrival. 

Potatoes in Row

Although our bodies were exhausted and we anticipated the sore muscles and tender bruises we would feel the next day, Richard and I rejoiced in our labor.  With the right balance of rain, warm weather and rich soil, the potatoes will provide healthy food for many people and we appreciate our role in that process.  It is a physical and emotional satisfaction I never seem to find in the gym. 

Roasted Potatoes

Our friends, Susan and Mark Gibbs, visited from Florida last week and we enjoyed these potatoes with an evening meal.  Although the potato skins were a bit wrinkled after long-term storage and I had to remove sprouts from them, their flavor was much better than any I could purchase at the supermarket.  

1-2 pounds potatoes, skins scrubbed, but not peeled, cut into pieces

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (for richer flavor, use duck fat, if you have it)

1/2 cup chicken or vegetable stock

Sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, onion and garlic granules, to taste

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

Fresh herbs (thyme, chives, parsley)

In a large bowl, combine potatoes with oil and seasonings.  Pour stock into glass baking dish, add potatoes in a single layer.

Place dish in a preheated, 400 degree, oven and roast for approximately 20 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking time, until potatoes are fork tender.  Top with fresh snipped herbs and serve warm.

Anticipating Asparagus

Last year's asparagus, sharing space with edible wild violets

Spring will arrive this week and already there are signs of new life at Heart & Sole Gardens.  Arugula, that delicious spicy green, is beginning to bloom, the buds on apple and peach trees are swelling and the first Purple Martin "scout" arrived last week.  Purple Martins are migratory birds that return to our farm each spring and live in the gourds we hang for them.  Aerodynamic acrobats, these birds are sociable and help control the insect population at the farm.  Usually, the first Martins arrive in April, so we hope this early return means a quick end to the recent cold temperatures and frozen precipitation.  As I walked the farm fields last week, I eagerly searched for another Spring harbinger.  Asparagus spears are not yet visible, but I hope it will only be days before the first tender shoots emerge from the earth and bring with them the delicious, crisp taste of true Spring.

Purple Martin "Scout" March 11, 2014

Growing asparagus requires a leap of faith because gardeners may not harvest spears until the plant's third growth year.  If shoots are cut too early, the plant is unable to establish its root system and it will perish.  Gardeners can get a jump start by purchasing three-year-old plants, but even then, no spears should be cut the first year.  After the third growth year, gardeners may harvest spears for six to eight weeks before allowing spears to grow into beautiful fronds that provide nutrients for the plants and make them more productive the following year.  About fifteen years ago, I planted ten asparagus crowns in my herb garden.  This raised bed is convenient to my kitchen and I add fresh pine straw mulch in Fall and Spring, so weeds are easy to control.  Because we love asparagus and thought it was an easy perennial plant to grow, Richard and I planted over 650 asparagus crowns at Heart & Sole Gardens.  Using rakes, we mounded three long rows and carefully placed each leggy plant on top of the rows.  After covering what looked like sea creatures with a good bit of soil, we resisted the temptation to cut that year's first tender shoots. 

Asparagus rows at Heart & Sole Gardens

We reaped the rewards of our efforts the following year when we tasted our first asparagus.  Asparagus is a vegetable, like corn, that should be eaten as soon as possible after harvest for optimum flavor.  I use a sharp knife to cut the spears close to the ground and sometimes, I confess, I eat them in the field.  Deliciously sweet and nutty, raw asparagus is a treat.  We also enjoy asparagus grilled, roasted, baked in casseroles and frittatas, lightly steamed or pureed in soups.  One of our family's favorite recipes was shared with me by Miss Mary Mast, a former home economics teacher at Hibriten High School, in Caldwell County.  During her long teaching career, Miss Mast taught hundreds of students to appreciate healthy food and to prepare delicious dishes.  Her asparagus rolls were locally famous and when she served them, hot from the oven, for faculty parties, wedding or baby showers, or to classes of hungry students, there were never leftovers.  

Asparagus and Morel Mushroom Frittata, Sublime Marriage of Spring Ingredients

Once asparagus plants are established, organic pest control is fairly simple and asparagus beetles, the plants' nemesis, may be removed by hand.  Although it is easy to weed my home bed, it is usually impossible for me to keep the asparagus rows at the farm free of weeds and, each February, I remove the spent fronds and begin the annual arduous process of pulling weeds by hand. Last month, I used a sling blade tool to remove dead asparagus fronds and weeds, but quickly decided the tractor was a faster, easier machine for that task.  Admittedly, 650 asparagus plants yields a lot of produce and while Richard and I do not enjoy the necessary weeding process for this crop, we do love to eat fresh asparagus.  With what we hope will be an abundant harvest this Spring, we plan to share with our son's restaurant, Heirloom, located in the Mountain Island Lake community of Charlotte, and it is gratifying to know many blog readers will have the opportunity to sample the fruits of my labor.  

While we all look forward to warmer days, enjoy this harbinger of Spring and whether you grow your own or purchase it at a local farmer's market or supermarket, try this recipe, courtesy of Mary Mast.  Each Spring, I make hundreds of these rolls and store them in freezer bags so we can enjoy asparagus when it is not in season.  

Baked Asparagus Rolls, Hot From the Oven

Miss Mary Mast's Asparagus Rolls

20 slices white or whole wheat sandwich bread, remove crusts and flatten with a rolling pin
12-14 asparagus spears, lightly steamed (canned may be used)
3 ounces cream cheese, softened
4 ounces blue cheese crumbles
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 1/2 sticks butter, melted

Combine egg and cheeses and spread onto flattened bread slices.  Place one asparagus spear on cheese mixture and tightly roll bread around spear.  Use fingers to press edges of bread to seal.  Dip rolls into melted butter and place rolls on cookie sheet, lined with parchment paper or a baking pad.  Place rolls in freezer and leave until firm, but not frozen through, about 20 minutes.  Remove from freezer and use a sharp knife to slice each roll into thirds.  Store frozen rolls in freezer bags.  Before baking, preheat oven to 425 degrees.  Place frozen rolls on baking sheet and bake for about 12-15 minutes, until golden.

The special tool I use for weeding asparagus

Walk (And Eat) on the Wild Side

When my daughter was old enough for sleepover visits with friends, she once remarked that she enjoyed staying with one friend because "her mother buys us chicken nuggets and fries for dinner.  You just go pick things out of the yard."  She did not intend to compliment me.  With asparagus, that delicious Spring harbinger at our farm, still weeks away from harvest, I will admit that my own backyard is often a source for early-spring treats. Now that my daughter is an adult, she appreciates this bounty as much as I do.

Gardeners spend countless hours preparing ground, planting seeds, maintaining plants and harvesting crops that feed us, but other foods are readily available to most of us, require almost no effort to grow, are free for the picking and, (dare I say it?), are often more nutritious than food we grow or purchase at the farmer's market or grocery store.  Edible weeds, the arch-nemesis of many gardeners, are a source of abundant vitamins and minerals and they taste good.  Plus, they are almost pest-free; when was the last time you heard a gardener bemoan the fact that his or her dandelion greens were riddled by flea beetles?  Easy to identify and versatile in the kitchen, a few edible weeds are widely available and make a great combination for a simple, yet delicious, dish.  Note: before foraging, be sure the area is free of chemical pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers, always obtain permission from property owners before harvesting any plants and only pick plants you can confidently identify as edible.

Creasy Greens

Creasy greens, a biennial European herb in the same family as mustard and cabbage, has flourished throughout the Southeastern US since the late 1700s and may be eaten raw or cooked.  Self-seeding, this cousin of cress is not invasive in the garden, has a peppery flavor and is packed with three times the Vitamin C of comparable amounts of fresh oranges.  Also known as "scurvy grass" by some Appalachian residents, creasy greens are credited with protecting early mountain settlers from that condition.  Creasy greens are one of the earliest fresh greens to grow, often throughout Winter's cold months, and for optimum flavor, pick them before their dainty yellow flowers begin to bloom. 

Dandelion Greens

With edible leaves, roots and flowers, dandelions are versatile plants that have long been used for culinary and medicinal purposes.  Dandelion greens are high in fiber, are a good source of potassium and are one of the most abundant herbal sources for Vitamins A and K.  Leaves have a slightly bitter flavor that is more pronounced after the plant begins to bloom.  To make a coffee alternative, harvest dandelion roots in the fall, allow them to dry and grind them into a powder. 

Wild Onions

Wild onions are an invasive Allium species for most lawns, but for flavor and texture, they are perfect for my "Spring Tonic" dish.  With edible bulbs and leaves, it is easy to dig clumps of these pungent wild vegetables, but rather time-consuming to clean them.  High in Vitamins A and C, wild onions are also a good source of iron, zinc and other minerals. 

From left: Creasy Greens, Wild Onions and Dandelion Greens

Foraging, the practice of harvesting wild edibles, is an enjoyable outdoor activity and with an abundant source of delicious foods now in season, early Spring is a perfect time to experiment with these ingredients in the kitchen.  Try this recipe for a "Spring Tonic" or create your own wild edible dish.  The onions have a caviar-like pop in the mouth and the greens are silky smooth with the pasta.  "Medicine" never tasted so good . . .perhaps I will invite my daughter for dinner!

Spring Tonic Pasta

For each serving:

2 ounces pasta, cooked (al dente) in 1 cup water, 2/3 cup dry white wine, 1/4 tsp garlic granules, 1/4 tsp onion granules, 1/2 tsp sea salt and a few grinds of black pepper (Seasoning the pasta water means the dish will probably not require additional salt or other seasoning.)

Remove pasta pot from heat, but do not drain pasta

1 cup creasy greens, washed and dried, leave whole or roughly chop

1 cup dandelion greens, washed and dried, whole or chopped

1/4 cup whole wild onion bulbs, cleaned and dried

Tender leaves from onions, sliced into thirds

In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium high heat.  Add onions, toss to coat with oil and cook briefly, 1-2 minutes, until slightly translucent.  Use a slotted spoon to dip hot pasta from cooking liquid and add to skillet.  Toss to combine with onions, add greens and onion leaves and cook until greens are wilted, but still bright green, no more than 2 minutes.  If necessary, add a bit of the pasta water. (I add no additional seasoning, but salt or pepper may be added at this point.)

Pour pasta/greens/onion mixture into a large serving bowl and add some freshly shaved Parmesan cheese, if you like.  Serve with crusty bread. 

*For a gluten free, low carbohydrate version, substitute cooked spaghetti squash for pasta

Hot Potatoes!

Purple Majesty Seed Potatoes

My seed potato order arrived last week and when I removed the protective packaging from the tubers, their earthy essence filled the room, reminding me of the smell of an abandoned root cellar where my brother, Dale, and I dared each other to step inside while we dodged jumping crickets and conjured imaginary goblins.  As I recalled our childhood antics, I carefully inspected each container's seed, removed a couple of potatoes that were bruised in transit and stored the rest in a dark room where they will remain until time to plant.  Although in past years we have planted more than twenty varieties of potatoes at Heart & Sole Gardens, this year's crop will include thirteen and each type is unique in taste, appearance and texture.  Typically, one pound of seed will produce approximately ten pounds of potatoes, but last summer's wet weather drastically decreased our potato crop, so we are hopeful 2014 will be a more productive potato season. 

March is a prime time for planting NC potatoes and for farmers who consult the lunar calendar for optimum planting days, this year's "best" days to plant root crops are March 17-21, 24, 25, 28 and 29.  Even if you don't have a large garden space, potatoes, especially fingerling varieties, those delicious finger-shaped potatoes prized by chefs, are easy to grow in containers. Fill about one third of a large pot with rich soil or compost and place the potatoes, "eyes" up, in the soil.  (Potato eyes are the spots where sprouts will form and each seed potato may have several eyes.  Large seed potatoes are cut into pieces for more productive yield.)  Cover deeply and continue to add soil as the plant grows.  After blooms fade and the plant begins to turn yellow, potatoes may be harvested.

South Americans cultivated potatoes for thousands of years before Spanish conquistadors introduced the tubers to Europe in the mid-1500s and it was not until the mid-1700s that potatoes were widely grown in North America.  Although most South American potatoes came to the US by way of Europe, one variety, the Ozette fingerling, was transported to Washington in the late 1700s by Spanish explorers.  Native Americans discovered the abandoned potatoes and grew them in their own gardens until they were "rediscovered" by potato growers in the 1980s.  A partnership with Slow Food USA, which includes the Ozette as an Ark of Taste Selection, means Ozette seed potatoes are becoming more available to consumers.  With a rich, buttery color and nutty flavor, the Ozette is one of our family's favorite potatoes. 

In 2009, with help from our friend, Greg, and his Belgium horse, Bob, we planted our first large potato crop.  For months, we searched the growing plants, removing Colorado potato beetles and destroying their eggs, those bright yellow orbs that hide underneath potato leaves.  Richard sprayed the plants with sea kelp tea, a natural fertilizer that helps potato leaves grow stronger and together we pulled weeds and spent hours raking soil to add to the expanding hills.  When we "robbed" a few hills of fresh, young potatoes and ate them on the same day, we were astounded at the delicious flavor, so different from grocery store wares.  We now own tractor implements that make planting and plowing easier, but growing potatoes is still an act of wonder for Richard and me.  Slicing through skin, into flesh and cutting out eyes to plant, it is easy to feel a kinship with a lowly potato and with every harvest, we are grateful for these hardy tubers that supply food for months. 

Our daughter, Kate, astride Belgium Bob, and friend, Greg, prepare the ground for potatoes in 2009

Potatoes are low in calories, high in fiber and are a good source of Vitamin C, iron and potassium.  Since they are a root crop, potatoes are especially susceptible to chemical absorption both above- and underground, so it is important to choose organically grown potatoes when possible.  Increasingly, farmer's markets and even supermarkets offer a good selection of organic potatoes and some health care professionals recommend purple potato varieties, with a lower glycemic index rating, as a healthy choice for individuals who are concerned about sugar intake.  A versatile vegetable, potatoes are delicious boiled, steamed, roasted, mashed, fried and baked.  For a showstopper presentation, try the following recipe as a hearty side dish or as a main course.  Vegetarians may omit the protein.

Supreme Stuffed Potatoes

4 large baking potatoes (Purple Viking, if available; the pink and purple mottled skin is beautiful and the white flesh is creamy and smooth.)

2 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup sour cream

1/2 cup grated white cheddar cheese 

1 pound cooked shrimp

2 slices bacon or 1/3 cup chopped ham

3/4 cup thinly sliced fresh mushrooms

3 cups fresh baby spinach

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup lump crab meat

Fresh chopped chives or other herbs

Salt and Pepper 

Bake potatoes at 425 degrees for about an hour, until soft, cool slightly

Remove skin from top of potato and scoop out flesh, leaving potato shell

Sprinkle potato cavities lightly with sea salt and place on large baking sheet, covered with foil or baking mat

Stir cooked potato in large bowl with butter and sour cream.  Mash potato with fork until smooth.  Add mushrooms and spinach, stir to combine.  Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Add cheese and shrimp, chopped or whole.

Stir ingredients and spoon into potato shells.

Top each with 1/4 of the crabmeat, crumbled bacon or chopped ham, and Parmesan cheese.

Bake in 350 degree, preheated, oven until cheese is golden.

Before serving, add fresh chopped chives or other herbs.