Heirloom Garlic, Spring Tonic

Garlic scapes, the flowering head of the plant, are delicious

 
Despite its reputation as a vampire repellent, or perhaps because of that purported quality, garlic is a food most people either love or loathe.  There is not a lot of middle ground for garlic and I am definitely a garlic-growing and eating fan. One of the oldest horticultural crops, garlic originated in Central Asia and according to information posted on the USDA website, there is evidence Chinese and Babylonians used garlic over two thousand years ago.  Lauded by some as an aphrodisiac, garlic is generally classified in two categories.  Hardneck, a variety that produces stalks that bloom and are actually a cluster of bubils, rather than blossoms, is hardier for colder climates, but does not store as well as softneck varieties, which produce no scapes, more cloves and have a skin that dries for better long-term storage.  A hardneck variety that likely came from European immigrants grows at our farm and I love to see these beautiful heirloom plants multiply their numbers each year. 

The first potatoes of the season for Heart & Sole: Charlotte & Purple Viking

Earlier this week, I discovered a bag of asparagus trim, the ends I culled from spears, in my refrigerator drawer.  I planned to make a soup from them and when I noticed several other vegetable "scraps" on hand, I knew it was time.  With potato plants blooming, we carefully "robbed" a couple of hills of the first developing tubers.  When I pushed a shovel into the garlic row at Heart & Sole Gardens and harvested the largest bulb ever, I discovered the base for a nice spring "tonic" soup.  Incorporating some tiny rainbow carrots with beautiful tops, wild onions, dandelion greens, fresh herbs and every part of the fresh, green garlic, the end result was both super-healthy and delicious. 

Green garlic stems, carrots with tops and other veggies in the stock pot

Versatile and easy to grow, garlic was not widely produced in the United States until the late 1980s, when the Soviet Union allowed USDA representatives to purchase and gather seed and plants from the Caucasus Mountain region.  The USDA reps delivered garlic seed and bulbs to volunteer farms across the US, forming the basis of what would become industrial garlic farms.  As chefs and home cooks discovered the delicious possibilities of garlic, its popularity soared and it would be difficult to imagine a modern pantry devoid of garlic.  When you visit the farmer's market, be sure to look for fresh green garlic and scapes.  Whether you make this soup or create your own special dish, garlic will be an intriguing, healthy and delicious ingredient.  The vampire-repelling quality is an added bonus.

Spring Tonic Soup
The secret to good soup is time.  The reward for slow cooking stock is a rich, flavorful soup base.

Roast 1 large or 2 small green garlic bulbs in 400 degree oven for about an hour.  Reserve.

1 pound asparagus ends (it does not matter if they are tough)
Tops and stalks from 2 green garlic bulbs  
5 Wild Onion bulbs, cleaned, white parts only
1/2 cup fresh parsley
1 cup fresh dandelion greens
1 small fennel bulb, with fronds
1/2 pound baby carrots, with tops
7-8 springs fresh thyme
10 fresh garlic chives
1-2 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp whole peppercorns
4 1/2 quarts water

Pour water over all ingredients in a large stockpot.  Bring to a boil, pot uncovered, and then  lower heat to medium low.  Cook for about 6 hours, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by about half.  Remove pot from heat and strain solids from liquid.  Compost solids, reserve liquid.  The stock will be a beautiful dark olive green color.

About 1 cup thinly sliced new potatoes, skins scrubbed, but unpeeled
2 tablespoons butter (omit if vegan)
1 tablespoon olive oil (Increase to 2 tablespoons if vegan)
1 tablespoon roasted garlic, squeezed from bulb
4 cups fresh radish tops
1/4 - 1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)

Melt butter in a large pot.  Add olive oil.  Add potatoes, roasted garlic, and radish tops.  Stir and cook over medium low heat until greens wilt, about 4-5 minutes.  Add 2 quarts reserved vegetable stock.  Cook over medium heat for about 25 minutes, until potatoes are very soft.

Use an immersion blender to puree potato mixture until smooth or working in batches, place mixture in blender and blend until smooth. Stir over medium heat until hot, but not boiling, and add cream, if desired.  Ladle hot soup into serving bowls and garnish with edible flowers or croutons.

Edible flowers garnish spring soup

Who Doesn't Like a Vegetable?

I harvested asparagus last week and noted the season for that crop is over at Heart & Sole Gardens.  A perennial plant, asparagus enjoys cool temperatures and its tender spears are spring harbingers.  Recent warm temperatures encouraged plants to either grow tiny spears or branches from the larger ones, signals that the plants need to reach maturity in order to produce next year.  During season, I cut asparagus every other day, so with the end of that job and not a lot of other productive crops in action, Richard and I took advantage of the break and escaped to North Carolina's Outer Banks for a bit of R&R.

We booked a home on the Pamlico Sound and stopped at our favorite market to purchase fresh local seafood.  With crisp lettuce, bok choy and other goodies we packed in our cooler, our evening meals were delicious.  We savored soft shelled crabs with a crisp green salad, seared tuna steaks with grilled bok choy, bacon-wrapped sea scallops with warm kale salad and lightly steamed clams with lemon-caper butter sauce.  For our last vacation evening, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at a restaurant and made reservations for a table that boasted a spectacular sunset view.

The view from our restaurant table

With prime tourist season still a few days away, the restaurant was not busy and a hostess showed us to an intimate table in the dining room.  Our server, a fresh-faced young woman, greeted us warmly, gave us menus and left to fetch our drinks.  Although the menu was not extensive, we noted several options that intrigued us and when the server returned, I told her we had a few questions before ordering.  I noticed a frown line appear on her brow and when Richard asked her about the soup du jour, her lip curled a bit when she replied, "It's broccoli and bean."  Next, I asked what vegetables were included in a side dish and her disgust was thinly veiled.  "I am not sure.  I think it might be squash.  I can go ask, if you like."  I replied I would like to know and as she left the table, she looked back over her shoulder to say, "I don't like vegetables!"

Now, I will admit, since Richard and I grow many of our favorite foods, we can be a bit snobbish when it comes to restaurant food.  We know the hours of labor it takes to produce high-quality fruits and vegetables and what a taste difference it is to eat foods that are harvested at the peak of ripeness.  Often, we select restaurant entrees based upon the side dishes, rather than the protein, because we believe vegetables can be a real test of the kitchen.  When we heard the server's comment, we shared a smile.

"Who doesn't like vegetables?"  I wondered.  Somehow, that seems akin to not liking puppies.  In theory, one might hate the thought of shedding dog hair, housebreaking lessons or early morning walks in inclement weather, but then, a soulful eyed glance or wagging tail steals a place in the heart and confirmed dog-haters become proud owners.  Excuse me, parents.  As organic gardeners, we look at vegetables as beautiful, delicious and necessary.  Even those who claim to hate all vegetables probably munch on fries or tortilla chips and never realize those snacks are vegetable products.

Please do not think I feel superior to others when it comes to diet or food appreciation.  For about two years, our family included a child who only ate white foods.  Rice, pasta, potatoes, bread, bananas, grits, etc.  Concerned about her nutrition intake, I consulted the pediatrician, who assured me my daughter was healthy and would eventually expand her food choices to include those with color.  That prediction came to pass when we dined at a restaurant that served no white foods, but they did happen to have purple mashed potatoes.  At first, she was hesitant to try the dish, but because she was hungry, she took a tentative bite and then promptly cleaned her plate.  After that meal, my daughter became an adventurous eater, but she still draws the line at rabbit. . .

Our server returned and informed me that the grilled vegetables were zucchini and "some other kind of squash."  I ordered a salmon appetizer and a duck dish, served with grilled vegetables and goat cheese risotto.  When she asked how I would like the duck cooked and I replied "medium rare," the server could not hide her wince.  I suppose she was not a duck fan, either.  Richard ordered the soup as a first course and the server could not hide her shock.  Although she was competent and pleasant, she was clearly no actress.  While we waited for our food to be prepared, we watched a beautiful sunset and chatted about garden chores we would do when we returned home.

Richard's soup did consist of broccoli and beans, but it was watery thin and bland.  The salmon was farm raised and fatty, very different from the wild-caught fish I usually purchase.  Richard's steak and my duck were both cooked as we ordered and the sauce on my plate was excellent, rich and thick.  The vegetables, however, were our biggest disappointment of the meal.  We each had three slices of squash, one yellow and two zucchini, and there were marks to indicate that, at some point, these vegetables were probably grilled, but they were so mushy soft, it is likely another cooking technique was used after the grill.

Delicious duck, served with mushy vegetables

We mourned the poor vegetables that should boast texture and flavor and as we drove back to our cottage, we reflected upon the poor server's condemnation of vegetables.  We hoped that she would, someday, discover the rich flavor of a purple potato, perfectly roasted, or the sweet-nutty flavor of fresh asparagus, eaten raw in the garden.  Perhaps, she will become an adventurous eater, enjoying foods she formerly detested and lumped into the stereotypical vegetable category. 

Back at home, I harvested a beautiful basket of fresh lettuce and colorful radishes.  I chuckled as I recalled the restaurant server's theatrical reactions to our orders.  If only, I thought, she could taste this salad . . .

Fresh-from-the-farm lettuce is best

Mary's Salad

My friend, Mary Dobbin, is an accomplished artist and many people know her for her beautiful paintings, but in our group of close friends, Mary's talents as a salad maker are legendary.  Mary's salads begin with the best ingredients available and are simply and elegantly prepared, with delicious results.  Although she varies ingredients, Mary always uses a blend of crisp lettuces, fresh lemon juice, good quality olive oil and a good bit of dried oregano.  If you do not grow your own lettuce, purchase some at a local farmer's market.

In a large bowl, place one large handful of fresh salad greens per serving.  On a cutting board, slice cherry tomatoes in half and sprinkle halves with sea salt.  Add ripe olives, sliced cucumbers, dried cranberries, toasted walnuts or pecans, feta cheese and the cherry tomatoes to the lettuce.  (The amount of ingredients will depend upon servings, adjust the amounts for favorite ingredients or add any others you choose.)  Sprinkle the salad with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and a good bit of dried oregano.  Top with juice from a whole lemon.  Add olive oil, two or three times the amount of oil to juice, and toss all ingredients.  Immediately serve with crusty bread as a side dish or top with a protein for a main course.   

Bamboo Adventure

A versatile plant, tender bamboo shoots make a delicious pickle

After my friends tasted bamboo pickles last year, we made plans to gather this intriguing ingredient in the spring. Bamboo grows well in North Carolina's temperate climate, although it can be invasive, so it is good to have a friend who is willing to share the bounty.  Fortunately, my friend, Louise, agreed to allow us to harvest bamboo from her property and last week, longtime buddies, Kim Barnhardt and Karen Glasscock, met me on a hot spring day to collect the raw basis for this delicious recipe.

An incredibly versatile perennial plant, bamboo makes strong garden trellises, fishing poles, flooring and furniture and is an effective crop to control soil erosion.  Tender shoots are delicious edibles, but rapidly mature, so it is necessary to act quickly in order to enjoy this seasonal treat.  Armed with gloves, pruning shears and a wicked machete, our group harvested emerging shoots for pickling and several long poles for my friends to use in their gardens. 

Karen wields the machete to harvest a tender shoot

Many years ago, my family discovered the delicious taste of bamboo pickles when we visited Whippoorwill Academy and Village, in Wilkes County.  Created by Edith Ferguson Carter, artist, historian, land preservationist, writer and immediate friend to all who met her, Whippoorwill boasts several historical buildings that Edith moved to her family farm, including a chapel, art gallery, Tom Dooley museum, Daniel Boone replica cabin, jailhouse and many more interesting structures.  Often, Edith could be found at the Village, digging footings for another building or giving tours to some of the thousands of school children who visited there.  A woman of boundless energy, Edith passed away on May 12, 2014, and her death is a loss to us all.  Fortunately, her daughter, Margaret Carter Martine, shared Edith's mother's recipe for pickled bamboo with me and as I made the pickles this year, I fondly recalled happy times spent with Edith and her family.  

Sorted by size, these bamboo shoots will yield thousands of pickles

After a lesson in how to remove the outer leaves and quickly slice each section into rings, Kim and Karen were ready to load their vehicles with bamboo and head to their respective kitchens.

Kim demonstrates slicing a bamboo section

Karen, Kim and I with our bamboo harvest

To read more about our bamboo adventure or if you are interested in instructions for making your own bamboo pickles, visit www.seedtales.com  for the recipe. 

Stop, Smell and Eat the Flowers

Garlic scapes: a delicious harbinger of Spring

The full moon of May 14th is called the Flower Moon.  The recent warm temperatures are helping make the Flower Moon worthy of its name and there is a riotous explosion of colorful blossoms at Heart & Sole Gardens.  With a few exceptions, almost all flowers now blooming at our farm are edible, even the weeds.  Plants, such as arugula, kale, spinach, radishes and mustard, are in full blossom stage and many are setting nice seed pods, thanks to the hard work of our new bee colonies.  As I stroll through the rows of our seeding fall crops, in weeds that are knee-high, I often pause to pluck a flower and savor its unique flavor. 

Radish blossoms are spicy and beautiful

Many plants we routinely eat, such as broccoli and cauliflower, are actually edible flower buds.  When in season, squash blossoms are one of my favorite edible flowers and I love creating recipes that utilize this mild-flavored delicacy.  Last summer, I made hummus from my Mountain White Half-Runner beans, stuffed raw squash blossoms with the mixture and topped the treat with bean blossoms, for both garnish and fresh bean flavor.  Before preparing squash blossoms, gently remove the interior stamens because they have a slightly bitter flavor; I usually "field dress" my blossoms when I pick them. 

Squash blossoms with stamens removed

Toss fresh herb blossoms in salads or sprinkle them on soups, stews or meat dishes to add pungent flavor.  Garlic scapes are one of my favorite edible flowers.  In the bud stage, they are delicious lightly sauteed or pickled and when the bud opens, the individual blossoms add intense onion flavor to any dish.  To make beautiful pink herbed vinegar, pour white or rice vinegar into a large glass jar.  Add a few blooming garlic heads, along with chive blossoms and borage flowers, to the vinegar and close the lid tightly.  Allow the mixture to sit for a couple of weeks, agitating it daily.  When the vinegar is pink, strain the solids, discard them, and store the herbed vinegar in pretty bottles.  Herbed vinegar adds flavor depth to dishes and makes a great gift to share with friends. 

Marigolds: Poor Man's Saffron

 

 

Okra blossoms: Mild flavor, interesting texture and color

 

Sunflowers, in the bud stage, can be steamed and taste like artichokes

If you would like to celebrate the Flower Moon with an array of delicious edible blossoms on your plate, join us for Heirloom's special Artisan Dinner on May 14, at 6:30 pm.  Heart & Sole Gardens will provide some of the edible flowers and the five-course tasting menu will pair North Carolina beverages with each course.  For more details, or to make reservations, visit www.heirloomrestaurantnc.com 

Squash blossoms stuffed with Magic Bean Hummus

Try this recipe when you are lucky enough to have fresh squash blossoms; it is both beautiful and delicious.

Magic Bean Hummus

1/3 cup fresh shelled white beans
1/2 clove garlic, minced (I used fresh from the garden)
1 teaspoon tahini
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon hot pepper flakes
Pinch of salt
1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Add a small pinch of salt (I used French Grey sea salt) to beans in a pot.  Add water to cover and gently boil for about 3-5 minutes, until beans are tender.  Drain water and place slightly cooled beans in a blender or food processor.  Add garlic, lemon juice, tahini, salt and red pepper.  Blend ingredients until smooth.  Add olive oil in a steady, thin stream while blender or processor is working until hummus is desired consistency.  For as little waste as possible, use a plastic spatula to remove hummus.

Stuffed Squash Blossoms

Gently clean, if necessary, four squash blossoms and remove stamens from centers of each.  Fill a plastic, zip lock bag with hummus and cut a small hole in one corner.  Squeezing the bag, pipe mixture into the center of each blossom.  Garnish with fresh bean blossoms.  Refrigerate until ready to serve.  May be made up to one day before serving.

The BEST Heirloom Tomato?

Sliced heirloom tomatoes: Summer on a plate

Nothing says Summer like a fresh, juicy heirloom tomato.  That homegrown taste, whether from the delightful pop of a tiny cherry or the dripping goodness of a sliced two-pound whopper, has yet to be replicated in supermarket wares.  If you have never grown your own tomatoes, plan to do so this summer and impress your palate with the fruits of your labor.  Even if your garden space is limited to a container in a sunny patio corner, the ripe fruit you harvest will inspire you to expand future gardening horizons.

Since 2008, Heart & Sole Gardens has hosted over 100 tomato varieties.  After planting "the usual suspects" our first year, Big Boy, Early Girl, etc., a devastating blight destroyed fifty plants within days.  Heartbroken, my husband, Richard, and I began to explore a wealth of information about tomato plants and we made plans to minimize future crop losses.  Our research convinced us heirloom plants, started from seed, would be a better option for our organic farm.  Weather, like the cool, wet summer of 2013, can still play havoc with our garden, but after tasting the delicious, complex flavors of heirloom tomatoes, never again will we grow hybrids.  Not only do our heirloom tomatoes have a depth of incomparable flavor, but the variety of colors, shapes, textures and sizes adds beauty to our garden and our plates.  During the past few weeks, I have transplanted hundreds of tomato seedlings to larger pots and look forward to planting them at the farm.

Often, people ask which tomato is my favorite and there is no easy answer to this question.  Each fruit has unique qualities that make it suitable for different purposes.  A white paste tomato that has unremarkable
fresh flavor becomes a culinary star when it is cooked.  A green slicing tomato, perfect topping for a BLT, unleashes a sour flavor when canned.  A thick-skinned cherry tomato is not the best choice for a salad, but drying brings out a rich sweetness.  Naming a single favorite heirloom tomato is an impossible choice for me, but if you also love the complex diversity of heirloom tomatoes, here is a short list of plants I always include in my tomato garden.  For those who wish to read more about heirloom tomatoes that have thrived (and failed) at Heart & Sole Gardens, visit www.seedtales.com and check out the Heirloom Tomato Notes page.

Remember, taste is subjective and there are thousands of heirloom tomatoes to try.  Your favorites may be different from mine, but just think of the fun you will have as you taste your way through a platter of ripe heirloom tomato slices and determine your own "Best" categories.


Best Heirloom Tomato for a BLT

Hands down, my favorite tomato slice for this classic sandwich is Green Zebra.  Bright green, yellow-striped skin encases juicy Chartreuse green flesh and the natural salty flavor of this tomato satisfies those who need to limit sodium intake.  If added salt is an issue, avoid the bacon and pile on fresh basil, sprouts, cucumber slices or any other sandwich toppings with Green Zebra slices.  I have canned and dried Green Zebra, but the preserved product becomes sour, so they are best enjoyed while in season.

Best Heirloom Tomato for Drying

A Grappoli D'Iverno is a red cherry tomato that has a thick skin with a small beak at the fruit's blossom end.  Vigorous vines surpass my tallest cages and produce a heavy yield of dark red clusters.  While the flavor of the fresh tomato and juice is sweet, the dried fruit is incredibly delicious and is both sweet and tangy.   When these tomatoes ripen, I slice hundreds of A Grappoli D'Iverno, load them into dehydrators and then store the dried fruit in my freezer.  As a pizza topping, added to pasta dishes, salads or just eaten as a snack, A Grappoli D'Iverno is a wonderful dried treat.

A platter of fresh A. Grappoli D'Iverno

Best Heirloom Tomato for Processing

I grow several paste tomatoes and each of them has qualities I like, but for pure tomato flavor in a jar, Cream Sausage is the best tomato for canning.  Short plants have a wilted look to them, but they produce a heavy yield of creamy white fruit that yellows when it ripens.  Fresh fruit is dry, a bit mealy and has a bland taste, however, when cooked, Cream Sausage tomatoes release a rich, complex flavor that makes our family's favorite tomato soup. 
 

Canned Cream Sausage Tomatoes

 Best Heirloom Tomato for Slicing

 This is truly one of the hardest choices.  Worthy candidates are Pantano Romanesco, an Italian pink heirloom that has a smooth skin and sweet flavor, Green Velvet, a vibrant green tomato that is juicy and tangy, and Cherokee Purple, regarded by some people as the only heirloom tomato, but since I can choose only one Best, my choice is Great White.  The ripe fruit is huge and I have harvested several tomatoes that weigh more than two pounds.  Creamy white skin, a little pink in the flesh and a slight garlicky flavor combine to make this tomato unique in taste and visual appeal.

Great White on the Vine

Best Heirloom Tomato for Pickling

While I have eaten many pickled tomatoes, most recipes use unripe fruit, but my favorite way to pickle tomatoes is to use a combination of ripe cherry tomatoes.  Packed into jars with fresh basil, peppers and garlic and covered with a pickling solution, tomatoes may be processed or stored in the refrigerator.  For each jar of pickles, I include Black Cherry, a miniature Cherokee Purple lookalike, Snow White, Sungold, Isis Candy and other varieties; however, the extreme sweetness of Jujube makes it the best pickling tomato.  Tiny red fruit gives the perfect balance of salty sweet and Jujubes are always the first to disappear from the pickle jar.
 

Jujubes are the tiny red tomatoes at the bottom of the jar